The Boston Globe

A somber Christmas Eve on streets of Bethlehem

Celebratio­ns in West Bank town canceled by war

- By Melanie Lidman

BETHLEHEM, West Bank — The typically bustling biblical birthplace of Jesus resembled a ghost town Sunday after Christmas Eve celebratio­ns in Bethlehem were called off due to the Israel-Hamas war.

The festive lights and Christmas tree that normally decorate Manger Square were missing, as were the throngs of foreign tourists and jubilant youth marching bands that gather in thetown each year to mark the holiday. Dozens of Palestinia­n security forces patrolled the empty square.

“This year, without the Christmas tree and without lights, there’s just darkness,” said Brother John Vinh, a Franciscan monk from Vietnam who has lived in Jerusalem for six years.

Vinh said he always comes to Bethlehem to mark Christmas, but this year was especially sobering. He gazed at a nativity scene in Manger Square with a baby Jesus wrapped in a white shroud, reminiscen­t of the thousands of children killed in the fighting in Gaza.

Barbed wire surrounded the scene, the gray rubble reflecting none of the joyous lights and bursts of color that normally fill the square during the Christmas season. Cold, rainy weather added to the grim mood.

The cancellati­on of Christmas festivitie­s was a severe blow to the town’s economy. Tourism accounts for an estimated 70 percent of Bethlehem’s income — almost all of that during the Christmas season.

With many major airlines canceling flights to Israel, few foreigners are visiting. Local officials say over 70 hotels in Bethlehem were forced to close, leaving thousands of people unemployed. Gift shops were slow to open on Christmas Eve, although a few did once the rain had stopped pouring down. There were few visitors, however.

“We can’t justify putting out a tree and celebratin­g as normal, when some people [in Gaza] don’t even have houses to go to,” said Ala’a Salameh, one of the owners of Afteem Restaurant, a family-owned falafel restaurant just steps from the square.

Salameh said Christmas Eve is usually the busiest day of the year. “Normally, you can’t find a single chair to sit, we’re full from morning till midnight,” said Salameh. On Sunday morning, just one table was taken, by journalist­s taking a break from the rain.

Under a banner that read “Bethlehem’s Christmas bells ring for a cease-fire in Gaza,” a few teenagers offered small inflatable Santas, but no one was buying.

Instead of their traditiona­l march through the streets of Bethlehem, young scouts stood silently with flags. A group of local students unfurled a massive Palestinia­n flag as they stood in silence.

An organist with the Church of the Nativity choir, Shukry Mubarak, said the group changed much of the traditiona­l Christmas musical repertoire from joyful holiday songs to more solemn hymns in minor keys.

“Our message every year on Christmas is one of peace and love, but this year it’s a message of sadness, grief, and anger in front of the internatio­nal community with what is happening and going on in the Gaza Strip,” Bethlehem’s mayor, Hana Haniyeh, said in an address to the crowd.

Dr. Joseph Mugasa, a pediatrici­an, was one of the few internatio­nal visitors. He said his tour group of 15 people from Tanzania was "determined" to come to the region despite the situation.

“I’ve been here several times, and it’s quite a unique Christmas, as usually there’s a lot of people and a lot of celebratio­ns,” he said. “But you can’t celebrate while people are suffering, so we are sad for them and praying for peace.”

More than 20,000 Palestinia­ns have been killed and more than 50,000 wounded during Israel’s air and ground offensive against Gaza’s Hamas rulers, according to health officials there, while some 85 percent of the territory’s 2.3 million residents have been displaced.

 ?? MAJA HITIJ/GETTY IMAGES ?? Nuns walked to the Christmas midnight mass in Bethlehem, where more festive activities were called off.
MAJA HITIJ/GETTY IMAGES Nuns walked to the Christmas midnight mass in Bethlehem, where more festive activities were called off.

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