Nonna-Style Quick-Braised Escarole
Serves 4
In Italy, the colder months are the time when escaroles, endives, and chicories thrive and shine; they don't grow well in very hot weather. Here, too, their best examples grace our markets in winter. While leafy escarole makes wonderful salad, we all need gentler and warmer foods right now. In the classic version of this dish, a head of escarole is kept whole, leaves are opened wide, and they're carefully stuffed with savory ingredients. Then the leaves are closed up, tied, and braised in the oven, usually alongside slowroasting meat. But today’s quick method needs only 10 minutes to prepare, then the cut-up leaves simmer on the stovetop while you pan-roast sausages, saute chicken cutlets, or reheat white-bean stew or meatballs for a mid-week dinner. Together with good crusty bread, this escarole is pure comfort food. And if you don’t have all of the seasoning ingredients on hand, make do with the ones you have. If all you have is olives, raisins, and capers, it will still be delicious.
2 medium heads escarole
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 oil-packed anchovies, lightly chopped
2 heaping tablespoons pitted black olives
2 tablespoons pine nuts or coarsely chopped slivered almonds
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed
1 tablespoon dark or golden raisins
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, red wine, chicken stock, or water, or more if needed
1. Separate the escarole leaves, wash them well, and shake them dry. They do not need to be perfectly dry. Stack the leaves and make 4 vertical cuts to form strips.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the anchovies, olives, pine nuts or almonds, capers, and raisins. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
3. Add the escarole and stir it so it is coated with the anchovy mixture. Sprinkle with a small pinch of salt (the anchovies may be salty enough) and a pinch of pepper, Parmesan, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley. Stir well.
4. Cover the pan, set on the lid askew, and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. If the pan seems dry, stir in a little red wine vinegar, red wine, chicken stock, or water.
5. For very tender escarole, continue simmering for 5 minutes, or until the leaves are very soft. Check the pan and add more liquid if it seems dry. Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley.