Madhur Jaffrey’s Shrimp Pullao
Serves 4
In 1973, India-born actress Madhur Jaffrey wrote “An Invitation to Indian Cooking,” an extraordinary volume of food from the author's girlhood in Delhi and the dishes she made as a young mother in New York for family and friends. The 50th anniversary edition came out recently. For this pullao, which is similar to pilaf, you saute shrimp in a spice mixture mixed with turmeric (for the golden color), garam masala (a blend of warm spices), cilantro, lemon juice, and a chile pepper. Then, in another pan, you cook rice with onions that were starting to brown, the deglazed pan juices from the shrimp, and water. When the rice is tender, you add the shrimp and cook them together briefly. Watch the water measurements carefully: First a tablespoon of warm water is mixed with the spices, then 1 cup of water goes into the spice pan to deglaze it, and finally 2 cups of water simmer with the rice. This pullao is an elegant, golden, bright rice dish.
4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon garam masala (or pinch each of ground cardamom, ground black pepper, ground cumin, ground coriander, ground cinnamon, and ground cloves)
1½ teaspoons salt Juice of ½ lemon
1 fresh jalapeno or another green chile, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
3 cups plus
1 tablespoon warm water
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled
1 medium onion, halved and sliced
2 cups long-grain white rice, such as basmati
1. In a small bowl, combine 3 tablespoons of the cilantro, turmeric, garam masala or mixed spices, ½ teaspoon salt, lemon juice, chile, and the 1 tablespoon warm water. Stir well.
2. In a large deep skillet over medium-low heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the turmeric mixture and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Turn the heat to medium. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, for about 4 minutes untll they turn opaque. They may not be fully cooked at this point. Transfer to a bowl.
3. Pour 1 cup of the water into the pan. Scrape the bottom and sides of the pan so all the spices mix with the water. Turn off the heat.
4. In a heavy-based 3- to 4-quart flameproof casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 8 minutes, or until the edges start to brown.
5. Add the rice, remaining 2 cups water, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and all the spice liquid from the skillet. Stir well. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer very gently for 15 minutes, or until the rice has absorbed the liquid in the pan and the grains are tender.
6. Lift off the cover and add the shrimp with any juices in the bowl. With a fork, gently fluff the rice, mixing in the shrimp. Cover the pan. Continue cooking for 10 minutes, or until the shrimp is hot. (Total cooking time is 25 minutes.) Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro.