A year in review
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten this year? Bet you can almost taste it. So can area chefs who shared their top picks … from seafood to short ribs, cookies to cold-brew cocktails.
Will Brown, executive chef Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square: Gently cooked fresh dug potatoes from my garden with olive oil and sea salt.
Patrick Byrne, proprietor General Warren, Malvern: Warm lobster roll in Portsmouth, New Hampshire — unbelievable! A seafood restaurant called Row 34 — it was absolutely to die for. It was just perfect in every way.
Chris Calhoun, executive chef The Desmond Malvern: Tate’s gluten-free chocolate chip cookies.
Patrick Czerniak, chef de cuisine Main & Vine Bistro, Villanova: Shrimp and scallops aguachile from Condesa. The raw scallops and shrimp combination was cooked perfectly with lime juice and salt, but right around the corner came the heat you expect from Latin cuisine. And the cucumber puree helped balance everything and bring the entire dish together.
Rich Friedrich, culinary director PJW Restaurant Group: Hands down the ChopHouse Grille’s braised beef short rib over Yukon Gold mashed potatoes with roasted root vegetables. It’s on our updated winter menu for ChopHouse Grille. It’s a dish, to me, that screams winter comfort food. I also love our cold brew cocktails at the restaurant. Our general manager Jeff Thistle was able to craft an amazing beverage program, which we are very proud of.
Andrew Masciangelo, executive chef-partner Savona, Gulph Mills: I had a braised brisket at a friend’s dinner party. The way it was braised and beautifully sliced was divine.
Javiera Montoya, head baker Vituperio Artisan Breads & Studio in Lansdale: The truffle and pistachio pizza from Pizza Loves Emily in New York City.
Chris Welsh, executive chef-owner The Secret Ingredient Personal Chef Service, Wayne: Dinner at Suraya in Fishtown — exceptional Middle Eastern food, great atmosphere, great neighborhood. My husband’s cherry-glazed smoked ribs — the best ever.
Jenny Young, chefowner of Soup. It’s Love in a Bowl and The Red House Catering in Kimberton: That’s a very tough question! But one has to be the dinner my son Morgan made for my birthday last summer. I like little dishes, so we had bruschetta with three different toppings: wild mushroom, cannellini bean puree with garlic and parsley topped with blanched broccoli rabe and chopped fresh-from-thefarm tomatoes with capers, fresh basil and olive oil. A salad of arugula with fresh figs, balsamic vinaigrette, French blue cheese (Bleu d’Auvergne) and walnuts. Then a dessert of Greek yogurt drizzled with honey, chopped fresh figs and apricots and nuts. What a treat!
And … what’s the best thing you made in 2019?
Jenny Young: Probably Torta Milanese — a wonderful pie consisting of layers of Italian ham, eggs scrambled with butter and tarragon, roasted red peppers, creamed spinach cooked in butter with a little garlic, all baked in a springform pan in flaky pastry. The recipe can be found in “Baking with Julia.” It is wonderful.
Rich Friedrich: It has to be the pan-roasted blue cobia over winter succotash with arugula pesto. We ran this as a fish special at ChopHouse Grille.
Javiera Montoya: A chocolate ravioli for dessert — filled with ricotta, mascarpone, covered with a raspberry sauce.
Wild Mushroom Bruschetta Topping
Ingredients
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 1 shallot minced 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 large garlic clove, peeled, crushed and minced
Bouquet garni of fresh thyme, bay leaf, rosemary
1 to 2 tablespoons good quality balsamic vinegar
Good quality extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and sliced thinly 1 to 2 fresh tomatoes Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Instructions Soak dried porcini mushrooms in a cup of very hot water until well softened. Sweat shallot in 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil over low heat covered in heavy skillet with a dash of salt and a dash of red pepper flakes until well softened (about 2 to 3 minutes). Add garlic, cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes more, stirring occasionally (do not allow garlic to brown). Meanwhile, remove from bowl and finely chop softened porcini, strain and reserve the liquid. Add chopped porcini to the pan with garlic mixture and about 2 tablespoons of mushroom liquid. Add 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Increase heat to medium and reduce liquid for 5 to 6 minutes. Add sliced porcini to the pan, cook uncovered for a further 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. If pan becomes too dry add a little more mushroom liquid. Remove bouquet garni. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature.
Slice a baguette into 1/2inch slices. Cut a large garlic clove in half lengthwise. Brush each slice of baguette with EVOO on both sides. Toast until golden brown. Remove from oven and rub the garlic clove across the roughened toasted surface of each slice. Top with a scant tablespoon of the porcini mixture and serve at once.
Recipe courtesy of chef Jenny Young
Spiked Eggnog Cold Brew
Ingredients 3/4 ounce Jameson Whiskey
3/4 ounce 3 Olives Vanilla Vodka 1/4 ounce chocolate syrup 2 ounces cold-brew coffee 2 ounces eggnog Whipped cream and nutmeg to top Instructions Add Jameson, 3 Olives, chocolate syrup, eggnog and cold brew to a shaker with ice. Shake for 15 seconds. Strain into glass with ice. Garnish with whipped cream and a dash of freshly grated nutmeg.
Recipe courtesy of ChopHouse Grille