VEGAN POTATO SALAD WITH TAHINI

This robustly seasoned vegan potato salad is lively and earthy from a dressing of cumin, charred scallion and loads of tahini, which gives it a rich and creamy texture. This is a good one to make a day or two ahead as the flavors get better as they sit. Just be sure to let it come to room temperature so everything is at its brightest and most supple.

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 45 minutes, plus at least an hour’s resting

1 ¾ pounds yellow potatoes, such as Yukon Gold, cut into 1-inch chunks Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 bunches scallions, trimmed

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more as needed 1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 teaspoon ground cumin

¼ cup tahini

Ice water, as needed

½ cup soft herbs, such as cilantro, parsley, mint, dill or a combination

1. Place the potatoes in a large pot with enough salted water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until potatoes are just tender, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the kind of potato. Drain very well.

2. Heat the broiler. Arrange 1 bunch scallions on a sheet pan. Thinly slice the other bunch, reserving the slices for serving.

3. Season the whole scallions in the pan with salt and pepper, and very lightly drizzle with olive oil. Broil until charred, tossing occasionally, for 3 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board to cool. Coarsely chop scallions and set aside.

4. In a large bowl, whisk together lemon juice, garlic, cumin and a large pinch of salt. Let sit for 1 minute to mellow the garlic and dissolve the salt. Whisk in tahini, then gradually add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time (about 3 to 6 tablespoons total), until the sauce thickens and is smooth enough to drizzle. The sauce can take 30 seconds to 1 minute to thicken so keep whisking; if it gets too thick, thin it down with a little more water. Taste and add more lemon juice and salt if needed.

5. Transfer hot potatoes and charred scallions to the bowl with the tahini dressing. Drizzle in the remaining ⅓ cup olive oil and toss until potatoes are well coated. Taste and add more salt and lemon juice if needed.

6. Let cool to room temperature for at least an hour before serving, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. The potatoes will absorb the dressing as they sit. Just before serving, taste and add more salt or lemon juice if needed, and toss with the raw scallion slices and herbs.