Can I force cut branches?
Q: When I’ve gone to flower shows, I see vendors selling pussy willow and flower stems. Can I force my own at home? How is that done? What other early-season flowers can be forced?
A:
A variety of spring-blooming plants can be forced since they entered the winter months with already-developed flower buds sitting dormant on the branches. Forcing merely tricks them into sensing springlike conditions so they begin to open up. Since the opening process essentially involves absorbing water and expanding the cells in the flower buds, cut branches can be treated much like cut flowers in a vase.
Examples of additional species to try forcing include flowering cherry (Yoshino and friends), apple and crabapple, magnolia, quince (flowering shrubs, not the fruit tree, though that may also work), forsythia, witchhazel, certain viburnums, and redbud. (Since redbuds flower along the bark of branches of all sizes, you might have to cut off a lot of wood to get enough of a floral display, and you don’t want to compromise a tree just for that.)
The closer the flower buds are to opening naturally, the easier and faster they will be to force. Pussy willow could be cut about now, in late February, but other species may be best delayed until later in March. The window of time from harvesting stems to having open flowers could range from one week to as many as five, especially for species that naturally would be blooming later in spring, for example lilac.
Trim twigs and small branches in the early afternoon, when the mildest temperatures of the day have allowed the buds to be fully hydrated. Some floral arrangers soak the entire cut stems for several hours in warm water, but at the very least, make sure the cut ends stay underwater, just like with a flower bouquet. When you’re ready to arrange the stems, give the ends a fresh cut and put them upright in the vase. Spare stems to be used later can be set in a bucket of water to await display, and stored in a coolish room out of direct sunlight.
The ambient temperature and brightness of the room may influence flower color richness and longevity, but overall, a good forcing and storage temperature is fairly cool, around 55° to 65°. (The vase can sit in a warmer room when on display, though the warmer and sunnier the spot, the faster the flowers will age.)
You can find more tips from Extension web pages like Iowa State University’s “How to Force Branches of Spring-Flowering Trees and Shrubs.”
Q: I’m new to the area and am learning about invasive plants to avoid growing and invasive bugs I should keep an eye out for. What resources can I use to become familiar with local problem species?
A:
Tomorrow starts National Invasive Species Awareness Week, so this is a good time to learn about what species are a scourge on our ecosystem. There are many resources you can explore; these can get you started:
UMD Extension’s web page collection about invasive species, which covers some of the prominent plant, insect, and plant pathogen species common to Maryland home gardens and landscapes. (Included in that group are a couple pages about species not currently found here but which might be confused for other conditions or species that are more widespread.)
The Delaware Department of Agriculture publication “Mistaken Identity? Invasive Plants and Their Native LookAlikes: an Identification Guide for the Mid-Atlantic.” (nybg.org/files/scientists/ rnaczi/Mistaken_Identity_ Final.pdf )
The booklet “Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas Field Guide” (the 2022 publication date is the most recent edition), which can be viewed at invasive.org/midatlantic/ fieldguide/
The Maryland Invasive Species Council, established in 2000, brings together representatives from many agencies and organizations to share knowledge and discuss issues revolving around invasive species. Visit mdinvasives.org to learn more and to peruse lists and articles featuring particular species.