Cafe nears 10 years of flavorful fare
Tasi Rigsby’s shrine to affordable, chef-driven and scratch-made breakfast and lunch fare remains, almost a decade after it was founded in the Short North.
Tasi Cafe, located in an inconspicuous storefront on Pearl Street one block east of North High Street, stands firmly committed to thoughtfully made, mostly healthful fare with depth of flavor.
“I think the philosophy is really good food in a cozy atmosphere,” said Rigsby, who developed the menu. “It makes you feel good.”
One of the menu’s signature items is the poached egg over a black-bean cake ($9), made from dried, not canned, beans that are cooked in bold seasonings and run through a ricer to keep the cake light, Rigsby said.
The patties are formed, finished in the oven and topped with a quivering poached egg napped with a jalapeno beurre blanc featuring a bit of spice.
“They have perfected the poached eggs,” she said of her kitchen staff.
For the huevos rancheros ($9), the eggs are poached in tomato sauce redolent of cilantro, onion, cumin and garlic, and kicked up with jalapenos or serrano chilies. Grilled tortillas filled with black beans and queso fresco are served on the side.
Tasi Cafe is one of the few restaurants in town that bakes its bread from scratch.
Thick slices of wheat bread are the bedrock of French toast ($8), dredged in an egg wash fortified with cinnamon, nutmeg and a little cream and sugar. Cooked to a golden brown, the bread is stuffed with seasonal berries and other fruit and crowned with Greek yogurt and drips of honey.
“It’s beautiful to look at it, too,” Rigsby said.
For a hefty sandwich, the 3 Amigos Cubano ($11) features layers of pulled pork, barbecued
pork and sweet-andspicy bacon served on sourdough and garnished with a bright-green Bolivian salsa and house-pickled vegetables. All sandwiches are served with house-made potato chips.
“It’s big,” she said. “It’s a manwich. It’s a meal.”
The cafe shows off its fresh side with a composed beet salad ($7.95) served with skordalia (a Greek-style mash of bread, potatoes, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil), toasted almonds and arugula.
For a light finish to a meal, or for a snack, many customers order a flaky, homemade croissant ($3.25) and a shot of espresso ($2.75).
The Short North restaurant will celebrate its 10th anniversary in November.
“It’s a big deal in the restaurant world to turn 10,” Rigsby said. “It’s a huge landmark.”
How often do you eat out?
Maybe once or twice a week. Some weeks it will be every other day, sometimes not. It just depends.
What is your favorite place for a cheap, quick bite?
I really love this taco place called Taco Hass (Hass Tacos, Burritos & Mas, 7370 Sawmill Road). The people there are always super-friendly and the food comes out really fast. You can either order it to go or sit and eat it there. It is very authentic, and you know it's always going to be delicious and fresh. I always get the tacos. It's pretty simple, but always amazing.
Any other places for ethnic food?
I really love Greek food. My favorite place is Mezze (Mediterranean Cuisine, 5326 N. Hamilton Road). It is set up kind of like Chipotle, but Greek-style. You get to customize your meal there. I usually get a standard gyro with all
the toppings, and I am also obsessed with their dip sampler.
Do you have a favorite lunch spot?
I’ve been into Pokebap (7561 Sawmill Road) recently. It’s like sushi, but they put it in a bowl, so it’s becoming super popular. It’s my go-to for lunch.
What do you like to get there?
I like to try a bunch of different stuff, but I like their bowl. It's their standard dish with rice on the bottom with fish, and all your toppings like mango, cucumber or onions. It’s basically like a giant bowl of sushi.