Block’s Bagels and Deli

3012 E. BROAD ST., BEXLEY

614-235-2551, www.bexleyblocks.com

June 22 (out of five) The newest branch of an iconic local operation balances traditional fare with contemporary appeal.

corned beef and two eggs with bagel, “all the way” lox sandwich, potato knish, “Two Scoops” house chicken salad sandwich, “Good Ole Goodale,” Reuben balls, French-toast bites

Avirtual shrine of framed photographs graces a wall in DeArini’s Tavern & Grill. Among the honorees in this little hall of fame are long-faded, once-popular Columbus establishments such as Zachariah’s Red Eye Saloon, the Jai Lai and the Olentangy Inn diner.

Despite its sequestered location in a shopping center on Henderson Road, DeArini’s — an endearing bar and Italian-American restaurant open since 1967— has avoided the fates of the previously mentioned establishments, thanks in part to its loyal regulars.

Its patrons obviously enjoy an open and roomy, fussfree space embellished with Buckeye memorabilia; a large bar; Keno screens; multiple TVs; and inexpensive, red-sauce-splashed comfort food. Overseeing this scene — and a big, cigar-friendly patio — is a small staff whose members also tend bar and are friendly if not always speedy.

DeArini’s might be as non-trendy as the Fiestaware it uses — frankly, I appreciate such reasonable plates and bowls — yet that doesn’t mean it’s lacking in the craft-beer department. But if you just want a Bud Light in a frosted pint glass, and it’s Tuesday, it will cost only $2. Some cuisine-compatible drinks: Peroni beers are $4.25; glasses of Ruffino Chianti are $6.25.

For a great start to a meal, say “I do” to the wedding soup ($4.15). With its flavorful broth, plentiful spinach, mini meatballs and loads of poultry — most of which tasted like pulled turkey — it’s one of the best around.

“Humble” describes another starter, but that word doesn’t do it justice if you grew up loving oldschool Italian-American food: a simple house salad of mixed lettuces, pepperoncini, a few veggies, canned black olives plus an overabundance of winning, house-made redwine vinaigrette. When eaten with the provided warm, crusty rolls liberally enriched with butter from a little foilsealed tub, it’s a nostalgic taste of yesteryear.

The Italian sausage sandwich ($7.15) is another well-executed classic. A nicely toasted sesame-seed roll holds butterflied and deeply seared, thick-and-juicy, fennel-seeded sausage links enhanced by melted cheese and good house tomato sauce.

The pizzas are a highlight: rectangular slices of medium-thick crust with an audibly crunchy edge, lively house sauce plus attractively blistered cheeses. Like the pies, the topping options are fairly straightforward — this is the kind of place for zesty pepperoni, garlicky Italian sausage and pickled banana peppers ($16 buys a 12-inch pizza with three items). DeArini’s also offers a thinner crust, but I preferred the crisper “original” crust.

Delving into entrees (served with a house salad), I encountered more good food but several “almosts.” The pleasant-tasting original lasagna ($12.55), with house sauce, ground beef and plenty of flavor from spinach and ricotta cheese, was served almost hot. The chicken Roma ($14), a lighter, grilled cousin of chicken Parmigiana, was almost tender and came with almost al dente pasta flattered with cuts-above house Alfredo

sauce. And the otherwise lovable, hulking, sauce-drenched, one-pound meatball ($9) stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese — which would work better as a shared appetizer — was almost-heatedthrough in the center.

The killer “Shy Town” ($7.25) — a mammoth Chicagostyle Italian beef sandwich — displays DeArini’s at its best. Rather than roast beef and giardiniera as in the Chicago classic, this tour de force stars a boatload of delicious, house pot roast topped with whole pickled chilies. Black pepper, oregano, a righteous au jus soaking, melted provolone cheese and a notably flavorful toasted hoagie roll add to the fun.

Yes, it’s all that and a bag of Tom’s brand chips. Hopefully, DeArini’s will be serving it for at least another 50 more years.