Cheese puffs delight party guests
Caviar and truffles are all well and good, but nothing says “I’m pampering my guests” quite like a tray of hot, crisp gougeres straight from the oven.
It isn’t because these French cheese puffs are expensive to make; they're not.
A humble mix of grated cheese, butter and flour, they’re among the thriftiest tidbits on the hors d’oeuvres circuit.
Nor are they difficult — although if you don’t have an electric mixer, some muscle will be required to beat the eggs into the stiff batter.
But there’s a certain amount of planning needed both in terms of timing and oven space to serve them while they’re still piping hot — or at least still very warm. That’s when their buttery, cheesy charm is at its most pronounced. Putting this kind of planning into action amid the swirling, chaotic bustle of the average holiday cocktail party is what I mean by pampering, albeit in an understated way.
The upside of serving gougeres at a party is that you can make them ahead and freeze them before baking. Then, as your guests are unwrapping themselves from scarves and hats and winter coats, simply pop them, frozen, into the oven. By the time the drinks are poured, you’ll be able to pass around a steaming tray for immediate nibbling.
Plain gougeres are wonderful, but the cheese puffs also take well to variations. You can change up the cheeses, as long as you always sprinkle some extra on top to bake up into a salty brown crust. Chilies, cracked pepper or spices add verve.
Whole-wheat or rye flour reduces the puffiness slightly but adds a lovely earthy, nutty flavor. Or, you can add intensely flavored, minced bits such as herbs, garlic, capers and olives. Here, I use a combination of crisp pancetta and sage, but basil and olives would be lovely if you’re going for something vaguely Provencal. And so on.
If you can work fast or find a helper, you can fill your gougeres with all kinds of tasty mixes. Slice them open while they’re still hot to the touch, and spoon or pipe in the likes of smoked fish mousse, pimento cheese, or dollops of chicken or lobster salad. Or try filling them with a spoonful of creme fraiche topped by an even larger one of caviar — and pamper your guests to the extreme.
Put pancetta in a large skillet and place over medium heat. Cook slowly, stirring, until fat is rendered and meat is wellbrowned and crispy all over, 12 to 17 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel.
Sprinkle sage into the hot fat in the skillet and cook until crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer to plate with pancetta. When cool, finely chop pancetta and sage together.
Heat oven to 425 degrees and line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Have ready an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or use a sturdy mixing spoon).
In a saucepan, bring 1 cup water, butter, salt and cayenne to a boil. Stir in flour all at once, and cook, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, until dough forms a mass and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 2 to 3 minutes. The dough will be quite stiff.
Scrape into the mixer and beat until cooled slightly, about 30 seconds. Add one egg at a time, letting it fully incorporate before adding the next. (If you don’t have a mixer, you can do this by mixing dough vigorously with a sturdy spoon.)
When eggs are incorporated, add Gruyere and continue to beat until it is mostly melted into batter, then add pancetta and sage and mix until combined.
Transfer batter to a large sealable plastic bag, and snip off ¾-inch from one corner, or use a pastry bag. Pipe into balls, about 2 teaspoons each, leaving 1 inch of space between them. (Or, use a spoon to form the balls and drop onto baking sheets.)
Sprinkle Parmesan on top, and bake 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees, and continue to bake until golden and cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes more. Serve immediately, while still warm.
The gougeres will still be delicious if you use all-purpose flour, but bread flour makes them rounder and puffier.
Heat oven to 425 degrees, and line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
In a small saucepan, bring 1 cup water, butter, salt and cayenne to a boil. Stir in flour all at once and cook, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon, until dough pulls away from the sides of the pot, 1 to 2 minutes.
Scrape dough into the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with a paddle until cooled slightly, about 30 seconds. (Or you can do this with a wooden spoon if you beat vigorously.) Add one egg at a time, letting each one incorporate before adding the next. Mix in Gruyere and continue to beat until it is mostly melted into batter.
Transfer batter to a large, sealable plastic bag, and snip off inch from one corner. Pipe 2-teaspoon-sized balls, spaced 1 inch apart, onto baking sheets. Or use a spoon to form the balls. Sprinkle Parmesan on top and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to bake until golden and cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes.
Cool slightly, then serve immediately.