The Columbus Dispatch

Spot focuses on dishes of northern China

- By Gary Seman Jr. onrestaura­nts@ dispatch.com — Steve Stephens sstephens@dispatch. com @SteveSteph­ens

Don’t be fooled by the name: Jiu Thai is all about Chinese food — northern Chinese, to be specific.

When Leo Xia and Emma Bian opened the restaurant five years ago in the Olentangy Plaza, they choose a Mandarin phrase basically meaning “longstandi­ng Tai mountain range” — located in northern China, but Tai didn’t convey food, so they augmented the word.

The place has become known for its noodles — most notably, the hand-stretched kind customers may find in dishes such as the biang biang noodles ($10): wide, chewy rice noodles layered with thin slices of beef, baby bok choy, napa cabbage and bean sprouts, with a dash of dried chili peppers. A drizzle of vinegar is recommende­d to help add tartness to the dish.

Jiu Thai is one of many Chinese restaurant­s along Bethel Road but differenti­ates itself by narrowly focusing on regional fare, manager Nicole Young said.

“It’s more of the northern-style Chinese food with traditiona­l flavors,” Young said. “Obviously, we do have the menu with the Americaniz­ed menu

items. But we try to keep the core menu having all of the traditiona­l flavors.”

Another popular dish features cold noodles ($8.25), shredded cucumber, bean sprouts, cilantro and “flour tendons” — irregularl­y shaped noodle dumplings sesame-studded “pancake” that’s been split in half. A bit of lettuce adds texture, and flavored oil seasons the dish.

Jiu Thai is one of the few places in town to offer Chinese barbecue served on skewers: lamb ($1 a skewer, minimum order of two) is the most popular, followed by squid “feet” (chopped squid seasoned with a sweet sauce, $1.50), chicken hearts ($1.40) and fish tofu ($1.50). Each version is seasoned with a spice blend that contains chili and is grilled.

To broaden its appeal, Jiu Thai has added a line of Asian-style drinks such as smoothies ($4.50), bubble tea ($3.75), ice drinks ($3.75), hot taro-milk tea ($2.75) and hot milk tea ($2.50).

The restaurant does not serve hot pots but comes closest with the swai fish ($14) served in a steaming bowl of oil-based broth with whole peppercorn­s, dried chilis and mixed vegetables. Young advises diners not to eat too much of the oily broth but says the mild, firm-fleshed whitefish is fair game.

“It melts in your mouth a little when you eat it,” she said. “That’s what I like about it.”

How often do you eat at restaurant­s?

Probably twice a week; dinner, usually, and on a Saturday morning I enjoy a good brunch.

What are some favorite dinner places?

If it’s just a casual, let’s-grab-something dinner, my husband and I like Tyler’s Pizzeria and Bakery (7516 E. Main St., Reynoldsbu­rg). It’s a cool little place where you can watch them make your pizza, and they let you try their baked goods. They grow their own herbs right out front. Their hamand-cheese croissant is really flavorful and flaky; if I had to choose a last meal, that might be it. And the guys who own it are super nice.

Another place we like to go is King Gyros (400 S. Hamilton Road). It’s painted with vibrant murals that make it look like you’re in a little Greek villa. The portions are really generous, and the food is good. They’ve got a ton of great baked goods as well. You’ll notice a theme with me and baked goods.

How about for a special occasion?

My favorite is the Refectory (Restaurant & Bistro, 1092 Bethel Road) It’s in a beautiful old church, the service is always excellent, and the food and presentati­on is top notch. It’s food you don’t Blacklick

make at home, that’s the beauty of it. I don’t use a lot of goat cheese at home.

We also like Wolf’s Ridge Brewing (215 N. 4th St.) and the (Mitchell’s) Ocean Club (Easton Town Center).

Both have great drink offerings, good meals, everything you need for a romantic evening. I’ve never had a bad meal at either place.

You mentioned you enjoy brunch. Where would you recommend?

SuperChef’s in Gahanna (1344 Cherry Blossom Road; also at 199 E. Broad St.). They’ve got a superhero theme that's very cool, with foods like the Hulk, a green waffle sandwich. There’s a breakfast pizza with candied bacon, cheese, tomatoes and fresh herbs; and a variety of pancakes: Reese’s, red velvet, blueberry. They've got fun drink options as well and lots of TVs, which makes it a nice place to watch college football.

 ?? [TOM DODGE/DISPATCH] ?? The biang biang noodles at Jiu Thai
[TOM DODGE/DISPATCH] The biang biang noodles at Jiu Thai

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