The Columbus Dispatch

Step beyond modest facade for delicious Ethiopian cuisine

- By G.A. Benton

With food, first impression­s don’t always have the last word. For evidence, I’d cite the initial mealtime appeal of a grazing cow, a live lobster and a freshly excavated potato.

I could add Addis Restaurant to that list.

Pulling up to Addis Restaurant after a good friend mentioned that he’d eaten delicious Ethiopian food there, my first impression was that describing its exterior as “humble” would be charitable. Once inside, though, I discovered that my pal was right. Behind a rather uninviting facade, Addis is a surprising­ly festive little restaurant that serves vibrant, inexpensiv­e and delicious food.

On the floor near its entrance, visitors are greeted by the parapherna­lia necessary for an Ethiopian coffee ceremony that includes a frequently smoking incense burner dispensing the heady scent of smoldering frankincen­se.

Ethiopian culture is celebrated on pennants and posters lining the blueand-white walls of the homey, generally bustling main dining room. And it’s showcased in often-riveting videos on the lone TV.

Newcomers to Ethiopian food might be understand­ably confused by their first glance at Addis’s menu. But once you get up to speed, ordering and eating is a breeze.

The first thing to know is that injera — a spongy, honeycomb-patterned sourdough flatbread made with fermented teff (a highly nutritious grain) — is key to the cuisine. It functions as both edible plate and utensil because food is served upon, and scooped up with, injera. (I usually ask for a “securitybl­anket” fork, then hardly use it.)

Second, with a few exceptions, the menu can Chicken zillzill, left, and doro wot mahbarawi at Addis Restaurant 3750 Cleveland Ave.

 ?? [ROB HARDIN/ALIVE] ??
[ROB HARDIN/ALIVE]

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States