Food from south of the border tempting on Cinco de Mayo

Cinco de Mayo, which is Saturday, isn’t actually celebrated much in Mexico. As you’ve undoubtedly noticed, though, the pseudo-holiday has become a trendy excuse for people in America to whoop it up, come springtime, in quasisouth-of-the-border-style. This makes Tomatillos Authentic Mexican — a Mexican eatery that caters to American tastes — a thematically compatible place to visit on the fifth of May.

At Tomatillos, you’ll find current American restaurant mainstays such as the rice-bowl entree, the complete-meal salad and the fusion taco. And you’ll find this ubiquitous “fast-casual” routine: order at a counter, where you’re assigned a number; locate an open table; and wait for food.

Occupying a simple but sizable and lively space with high ceilings, Tomatillos offers padded brown booths and banquettes jazzed up by accents painted in the Mardi Gras color scheme of purple, gold and green. After finding a seat in the modern dining room — or the full-service bar — patrons are presented with a little bucket of thin, just-fried tortilla chips. These should be enjoyed with DIY accessories from the salsa bar in the rear of the restaurant.

There, you’ll find multiple condiments and pickled chilies; I only wish that all, not just a few, seemed to be house made. My favorites were the tangy, not-incendiary “hot” salsa with pleasant roasted-pepper flavor, and the fresh-tasting, tomato-based chip salsa. That white sauce called “salsa blanca?” It’s basically ranch dressing.

Your best adult-beverage options: six Mexican beers are on tap ($4.50 per pint) and there’s an even wider selection of bottled Mexican beers ($4). Craving a cocktail? The middling lime margarita ($5.50) is a The queso, chicken and broccoli entree and a Mexican beer at Tomatillos Authentic Mexican