TOMATILLOS

better pick than the potent, overpriced and misnamed “Perfect Margarita” ($15).

More than a dozen different tacos ($2.50 to $3) are available. Most are distinct and double-wrapped in warm, soft, corn tortillas. Among these are an OK fish taco with chopped and griddled cod, and a muchbetter taco starring two butterflied, plump-andsweet grilled shrimp. Both have creamy, bittersweet and mildly spicy notes from an interesting slaw fashioned with red cabbage and broccoli playing off house chipotle sauce.

House coleslaw also graces the pretty good Pollo Loco taco. So does tangy “guacamole spread” and, curiously, feta rather than cotija cheese.

Have you ever thought that fajitas resemble cheesesteak fillings minus queso sauce? The folks at Tomatillos have, and A variety of tacos at Tomatillos Authentic Mexican they’ve brought the elements together in a flour tortilla. Even if such culinary ruminations are outside your purview, you’ll still enjoy the Mexican Cheese Steak taco.

For a crowd-pleaser that’s more traditional, try the delicious barbacoa taco: pot-roast-style meat bathed in zippy chili broth and garnished with onions plus cilantro.

Sometimes, though, items

featured nicely seasoned, flavorful meats that arrived somewhat dry. This would describe my Buckeye taco (carne asada, good chorizo, grilled pineapple) and “street-style” carnitas pork taco.

Dry would likewise describe the red-tinted chicken strands in my Baja Mex salad ($9). The goodtasting meat is teamed with soupy black beans, fresh lettuce, corn, tomatoes, ranch dressing and cheese in a moderate-sized, not-bad ensemble.

The Tomatillos rice bowl ($9) with firm steak strips is a more flavorful combo. Flattering the beef are queso, a few lima beans, rice and most of the aforementioned salad vegetables.

But the best fusion bowl offered is the simple but gratifying queso, chicken and broccoli entree ($9), which includes uncredited corn. Mexican rice and cheese sauce make harmonious partners for broccoli and seared meat, and this likable melange delivers both comfort and healthful vegetables.

So while everything isn’t perfect, there’s plenty to enjoy here. Want more? Tomatillos is connected to a branch of the terrific Diamonds Ice Cream. Savoring a Diamonds house paleta — an intense, Mexican-style frozen pop rife with actual fruit — can make any day seem like a holiday.