Flexibility of Thai stir-fry enhances appeal of dish

The simple, clean flavors in this stir- fry are designed to remind you of the peppery Thai stir- fry dish called gai ka prow.

What you might like best about the recipe is its built- in flexibility, starting with the pan: We tested this in a wok, but if you don’t have one, a nonstick saute pan will work just fine.

Bone- in, skin- on thighs are what the recipe calls for, but if you happen to have boneless, skinless chicken thighs or ground dark-meat chicken, go with it. ( A pound of boneless meat will then be enough to feed 3 or 4 people.)

A food processor makes quick work of chopping up the chicken; you can achieve the same effect with two sharp knives and a large cutting board.

Fresh Thai basil is available at more grocery stores these days.

Its flavor profile has more aniselike, spicy notes than its sweet green cousin, Genovese basil — the kind you might be growing in an herb pot.

Either kind will taste great in this dish.

Serve with rice and green beans. Makes 2 to 3 servings Based on a recipe from “The 30-Minute Cook” by Nigel Slater. 1 medium red bell pepper 1 small yellow onion 2 large cloves garlic 1 small jalapeno pepper 1 pound bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce 1 teaspoon honey, or more as needed 1 tablespoons fish sauce, or more as needed 1 cup packed fresh basil leaves, preferably Thai basil Freshly ground black pepper

Cut the flesh away from the red bell pepper in ½-inch strips, leaving the ribs and seed core intact (discard those). Cut the strips into ¼-inch pieces. Cut the onion in half, then into thin slices. Mince the garlic. Stem the jalapeno, then cut it crosswise into thin rings.

Grab the skin on each chicken thigh and pull it off; you can use a sharp knife to detach it, too. Discard (or freeze and reserve for another use). Scrape the flesh away from the thigh bone, then cut through where the bone is attached at the top and bottom.

Transfer the meat (2 thighs’ worth at a time) to a food processor and pulse to chop into ¼-inch pieces, or use a sharp knife to do the job.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large saute pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the onion and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the bellpepper pieces and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the garlic and stirfry for 30 seconds, then scrape that mixture into a bowl.

Return the wok or pan to medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and swirl to coat. Once the oil shimmers, add the chicken, breaking up the pieces with the edge of a spatula. Cook, undisturbed, for about a minute, then stir-fry for another minute or so or until the chicken loses its raw look. (You want to sear the underside of the chicken, not steam it.) If the chicken gives off a lot of moisture, use the spatula to move it up the sides of the wok or pan temporarily so the liquid in the bottom can cook and evaporate.

Return the onion mixture to the wok or pan. Add the jalapeno and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the soy sauce, honey, fish sauce and basil leaves; stir-fry for 15 seconds, to incorporate the chicken and wilt the basil, then remove from the heat.

Season lightly with the black pepper and stir, then taste and add more honey and/or fish sauce, as needed. Serve right away.

• Circle S Farms, 9015 London Groveport Road, southwest of Grove City: strawberries (614-8789462, 614-878-7980, www. circlesfarm.com)

• Doran’s Farm Market, 5462 Babbitt Road, near New Albany: sugar snap peas, strawberries (614-855-3885, www.doransfarmmarket. com)

• Hann Farms, 4600 Lockbourne Road: sugar snap peas, strawberries, English peas (614-491-0812, www.hannfarmsmarketllc. com)

• The Maize Berry Patch, 8657 Axe Handle Road, south of Milford Center: currants; gooseberries; black, red and purple raspberries (937-349-4781, www.mazeandberries.com)

• Mitchell’s Berries, 9331 Mitchell-Dewitt Road, northeast of Plain City: strawberries, black and red raspberries (937-243-0635, www.mitchellsberries.com)

• Stacy Family Farm, 27515 Route 7, southeast of Marietta, near Reno: strawberries (740-374-2371, Fresh strawberries, a late-spring treat available at pick-your-own farms and markets