The Columbus Dispatch

Pair back feeding Franklinto­n diners

- By Gary Seman Jr. onrestaura­nts@ dispatch.com

Louie Pappas and Demetra Stefanidis have expanded their presence in the Franklinto­n neighborho­od.

The two ran Milo’s Deli & Cafe at 980 W. Broad St. from 1998 to 2014 before closing the cafe to expand the catering business. The name of the business was changed to Milo’s Catering.

Now they’re back and serving customers at Jubilee Market and Cafe, a store that helps the economical­ly disadvanta­ged in the Near West Side neighborho­od.

On the second floor of the market, Pappas and Stefanidis have opened Graze Catering, which is responsibl­e for the store’s prepared foods. Lower Lights Christian Center Health Center owns Jubilee and runs the grocery.

“It kind of gave us an opportunit­y on the philanthro­py side to help out,” Pappas said, who with Stefanidis also operates Graze on Capitol Square in the Ohio Statehouse.

“When they approached us two years ago, we weren’t sure we were going to do it, but as time moved on and the more times we met, the more conversati­ons we had, it The brisket macaroni and cheese at Jubilee Market and Cafe What: Jubilee Market and Cafe Address: 1160 W. Broad St. Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. weekdays Contact: 614-572-0777, www.llchc.org

just was the right thing to do,” he said.

An early favorite has emerged: the brisket macaroni-and-cheese bowl ($8). The brisket, given a Texas-style spice rub, is cooked slowly and then smoked. It’s served with creamy cavatappi pasta topped with breadcrumb­s, cilantro, cheddar cheese and “Graze glaze” — the pan drippings made into a house barbecue sauce.

“It’s not as rich as you would think,” Pappas said. “It’s balanced pretty well, an appropriat­e portion. It’s not like eating pot roast and mashed potatoes.”

Graze also makes adult chicken tenders ($7) using buttermilk­marinated strips of breast meat that are double-dredged in flour and deep-fried. Drizzled with a honeysrira­cha sauce and served atop macaroni and cheese, the dish comes with a housemade cheddar biscuit.

“It’s sweet, spicy and tangy; and it’s got this nice thickness to it,” Pappas said of the sauce. “And it goes with the chicken nicely.”

The always-popular gyro ($6) gets a traditiona­l garnish of lettuce, tomato, onions and house-prepared

tzatziki. Feta is 50 cents extra. For vegetarian­s, a falafel gyro ($6) is on the menu.

Among the many side dishes ($2 each), two favorites are redskin potato salad featuring mayonnaise, mustard, celery and fresh herbs; and pasta salad with cavatappi pasta, tomatoes, celery and carrots dressed with an Italian vinaigrett­e.

The house-made dessert options include cakes by the slice ($3 each), with a rotating selection of choices: double chocolate, lemon cake, carrot cake and buckeye cheesecake.

“We give our bakers a little leeway in what they want to put out there,” Pappas said.

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