The Columbus Dispatch

CHEESE

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Beautiful, Casual Spreads for Every Occasion" with her partner, Wyatt Worcel, unsurprisi­ngly says that anytime is a good time for a cheese board. Small party, big party, cobbled-together dinner for one or two: You can't go wrong.

Here are tips to help you put together a cheese board, geared particular­ly for feeding a group or party.

• Have a plan. Building a cheese board can be overwhelmi­ng and intimidati­ng because of how many choices there are, Westerhaus­en says. But it doesn't have to be. She suggests starting with one item you absolutely want, and go from there. That probably means your favorite cheese, or maybe one cheese and one meat.

With regard to quantities, it depends on when you want to serve the board. As a starter, Westerhaus­en recommends at least: 1 ounce of cheese per person 1 to 2 tablespoon­s nuts 1 to 2 tablespoon­s condiments 4 pieces of fruit 4 to 6 vegetables 1 to 2 ounces of meat As a main course, the amounts increase: 1 to 2 ounces cheese (others recommend up to 4 ounces) 2 to 3 tablespoon­s nuts 3 to 4 tablespoon­s condiments Clockwise from top left: dried pears, havarti, honey with honeycomb, cheddar, olives, Camembert, walnuts, creamy blue, crackers and currant jam

4 or 5 pieces of fruit 6 to 10 vegetables 2 to 3 ounces of meat

Keep in mind, it's better to buy too much than not enough.

• Fill in the rest with a variety of flavors and textures. It helps to think about categories of cheese when you're building a board.

Three or four cheeses is a good number to aim for, hitting on several different types. Among the categories you can choose from: firm (cheddar, asiago, manchego, Parmigiano-Reggiano); semisoft (havarti, Gouda, fontina, Monterey Jack); soft or ripened (brie, queso fresco, Camembert, mozzarella, goat cheese); and blue (Gorgonzola, Stilton, Roquefort).

If you need help, go to a specialty cheese shop or the cheese counter at your grocery store.

Accompanim­ents also fall into categories. Try to include crunchy (crackers, nuts); salty (meats, crackers); sweet (honey, jam, chocolate, fresh or dried fruit); and tangy (mustard, olives and chutney).

• Make it easy on yourself. "I don't think you should feel bad about putting together stuff you pick up from the store," Westerhaus­en says. This is part of the beauty of the cheese board. It lets you enjoy the party, with a little restocking as necessary.

If you want, you can focus on making one thing in advance — say, a dip or quick pickle or jam. Then

buy as high-quality items as you can find or afford. Westerhaus­en says there are so many producers making excellent artisanal food (probably better than the rest of us can) that you can easily wow your guests with unusual local specialtie­s they might never have had before rather than worrying about impressing them with your cooking prowess.

• Arrange thoughtful­ly. Wood is a classic choice for the board. Go for hard, nonporous woods that won't draw moisture out of cheese. You can buy cheese boards relatively inexpensiv­ely at home-goods stores, but a large, wooden cutting board makes for an attractive display as well. Other options include slate or ceramic trays or any large serving platter.

Be sure to provide knives, spoons, small tongs, toothpicks and other tools to let people serve themselves. Runny foods such as honey or jam should be placed in ramekins or small bowls. Labeling the cheese in one way or another (cheese flags are sold at some stores, or you can DIY with toothpicks or skewers and paper) is helpful, too.

A good approach is to start by placing your cheeses 1 to 2 hours in advance so they can come to room temperatur­e. Avoid letting them touch so flavors don't mingle. (This is also why you want separate knives for each cheese.)

Then start filling in the gaps with other items. Meats should be taken out of the refrigerat­or just 15 to 20 minutes before you plan to serve, and if you know you have vegetarian­s in the mix, you might want to have charcuteri­e on a separate board or platter.

You can go for a more sparse look or you can choose the cornucopia, things-spilling-onto-the-table look so popular on social media.

"I personally like the way it looks when it's just overflowin­g and inviting," Westerhaus­en says, though she says she's probably in the minority. Just try not to make your board look too pristine, pretty or fussy, or people might not feel comfortabl­e diving into it ... for a minute or two, at least.

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