Regulators, farmers question ‘organic’ label

NEW YORK — Is paying more for organic milk, meat or a can of beans worth it?

The “USDA Organic” label generally signifies a product is made with relatively minimal synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, and that animals are raised according to certain guidelines. But disputes over the rules and questions about adherence might raise doubts about whether the price is justified.

A federal audit in September found that the U.S. Department of Agriculture was “unable to provide reasonable assurance” that required documents for imported organic grains were reviewed at domestic ports of entry, among other weaknesses. The Washington Post reported last year that massive shipments of imported grains intended mostly for animal feed were wrongly labeled as organic. The Post also questioned practices by major organic dairy and egg producers.

A lot is at stake. Last year, organic food sales came to more than $45 billion, according to the Organic Trade Association, an industry group. That represented more than 5 percent of overall U.S. food sales.

Understanding the issues might help you decide whether to pay twice as much for a carton of organic milk or a dozen eggs.

Consumer groups generally recommend buying organic foods, saying they promote sustainable agriculture, limit damage to the environment and are good for people’s health.

“The system in place isn’t perfect, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t have this system,” said Charlotte Vallaeys, a senior policy analyst with Consumers Union.

You can find more detailed information about specific products, either directly from producers or others such as the Cornucopia Institute, an industry watchdog that rates dairy and egg farms.

Ronnie Cummins, director of the Organic Consumers Association, said that employees at food co-ops and smaller groceries also might be more knowledgeable about where products come from.

The USDA says it is trying to adapt its system for oversight. Among the actions outlined: Stepped-up inspections, coordination with other agencies, and finding technologies to help it better track products across global supply chains.

The Organic Trade Association also says it’s testing ways to detect fraud at select companies and will fine-tune them before recommending the practices to its broader membership. An association spokeswoman, Gwendolyn Wyard, says a degree of fraud is likely in any program, but that tightening standards is a priority.

“I’m not going to try to pull the wool over everyone’s eyes and say we don’t have work to do,” Wyard said.

The Real Organic Project says it is working on a label that it hopes would be an add-on to the USDA seal, indicating that additional rules were met, such as on living conditions for animals.