Vegan cafe especially delightful at harvest time in central Ohio
In a text I received recently, a friend declared: “Good time of year to eat at Portia’s.” I thought I knew what he meant, but just to make sure, I texted back: “?”
When he answered: “Specials board. Lots of fresh local produce,” I knew where I’d be having dinner that evening.
Open about five years, Portia’s Cafe is a beloved Clintonville establishment renowned for its healthful, plant-based cuisine. The casual little restaurant might embrace an idealism associated with the 1960s, but it does so through the cleareyed 21st-century vision of owner and chef Portia Yiamouyiannis.
Sure, numerous healthminded buzzwords such as “raw,” “organic,” “glutenfree” and “GMO-free” appear on Portia’s all-vegan menu, but no one would mistake the lively, flavorful fare served there with joyless, “eat it because it’s good for you” hippie food. And Portia’s pleasant dining room isn’t explicitly designed for jam-band super-fans and yoga devotees (though the latter group seems to be well-represented).
With locally grown produce and herbs for sale in windows, plus local art displayed on purple and yellow walls and coffee and tea paraphernalia set out as decorations, Portia’s is a cute and colorful space that’s cheery and inviting. Seating is limited to a few tables and padded booths (your best bet) in the cozy and friendly, full-service cafe.
An impressive selection of teas, house-made soft-drinks, smoothies and coffee is available. Among these, the deservedly popular Azure’s Choice smoothie ($7) offers a comforting richness and natural sweetness derived from bananas, dates and sesame seeds countered by an acidic brightness derived from pineapple, strawberry and citrus.
Reliable old favorites dot The beet salad at Portia’s Cafe in Clintonville. 4428 Indianola Ave.