Robuchon put own spin on French cuisine

PARIS — Joel Robuchon, a master chef who shook up the stuffy world of French haute cuisine by showing diners the delights of the simple mashed potato and a peek at a restaurant kitchen, has died at 73. A spokeswoman for Robuchon, who for years held more Michelin stars (32) than anyone else in the world, confirmed his death Monday. French media reported he died of cancer in Geneva.

Robuchon was named among the best craftsmen in France in 1976, crowned cook of the century in 1990 and chosen to be one of the cooks at the “dinner of the century.” Known for constant innovation and playfulness in the kitchen, Robuchon built a gourmet empire that included restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, Las Vegas and New York City.

“To describe Joel Robuchon as a cook is a bit like calling Pablo Picasso a painter, Luciano Pavarotti a singer, Frederic Chopin a pianist,” cook and food writer Patricia Wells wrote in “L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon,” a book about the chef and his students.

Robuchon’s dishes often were described as simple because he preached the use of only three or four ingredients. His goal was always to show off, not mask, their flavors.

He started a revolution with his business model of intimate restaurants where diners sat at a counter surrounding the kitchen. They didn’t take reservations, and many didn’t have tables.

His goal, Robuchon said, was to make diners feel comfortable, let them interact with the chef and, above all, put the focus back on the food. It was partially a rebuke to the Michelin star regime, which awards points not just for technique, but also for ambiance and service.

Robuchon’s latest venture opened in April in Paris: Dassai, a restaurant and tea and cakes salon with a bar for tasting sake. Robuchon