The Columbus Dispatch

Gluten-free brownies have rich, fudgy flavor

- By Becky Krystal

Has anyone ever eaten a brownie and thought, "Hmm, there's too much chocolate in here?"

After all, that's the point of a brownie, right? A delectable, indulgent, classic chocolate delight.

That pure chocolate flavor is the defining characteri­stic of these gluten-free brownies from cookbook author Anne Byrn, whose new "American Cookie" book includes a neat collection of treats from throughout the country's history and geography.

This recipe includes what sounds like an insufficie­nt ¼ cup of cocoa powder, but it works. Without a ton of flour to dilute its strength — and with a robust amount of brown sugar, which helps boost the fudgy flavor and texture — all you taste is chocolate.

A handful of chocolate chips (or chopped chocolate) is another chocolate vehicle. Expect the chocolate chips to sink in the batter, which is why the foil sling is so important.

The first time I made these brownies, I followed the instructio­ns to use a Fudgy Flourless Brownie

greased-but-unlined pan, and although it was hard to beat the crunchy, caramelize­d bits at the bottom, I couldn't get the brownies out without basically destroying them.

For more texture and flavor, you can sprinkle finely chopped nuts on top before baking.

If you like the chooseyour-own-adventure route, bake the brownies to the consistenc­y you prefer. At the lower end of the bakingtime range (25 minutes), they are gooey and reminiscen­t of a molten lava cake. A few minutes longer in the oven, and their crumb is more like a chewy brownie.

Note: The brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperatur­e for up to 3 days, or in the refrigerat­or for up to a week. For long-term cold storage, wrap them in plastic wrap and freeze for up to 6 months. Adapted from "American Cookie." 8 tablespoon­s (1 stick) unsalted butter 1 ⁄4 cup unsweetene­d natural cocoa powder 1⁄ 2 cup packed light brown sugar 1 ⁄2 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 large eggs 1 ⁄4 cup cornstarch 1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 ⁄2 cup semisweet or bitterswee­t chocolate chips (may substitute chopped chocolate)

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Press a long piece of aluminum foil into an 8-inch-square pan to create a sling, leaving several inches of overhang on two opposite sides so you can use it to pull the bakedbrown­ie slab out of the pan. Grease the foil with cooking-oil spray.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Stir in the cocoa powder until thoroughly smooth and well incorporat­ed.

Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the brown sugar, granulated sugar and vanilla extract, until smooth. Break the eggs into the saucepan, stirring until well incorporat­ed. Add the cornstarch and salt, stirring until smooth, then fold in the chocolate chips. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly into the corners.

Bake (middle rack) for 25 to 30 minutes, until the edges of the brownies are firm, the top is shiny and the center is just set. Let cool (in the pan) on a wire rack for 1 hour.

For easier slicing, you can then chill the brownie slab in the freezer for up to 1 hour. Use the foil sling to lift out the brownie slab before cutting it into 16 pieces.

PER SERVING: 160 calories, 1 g protein, 20 g carbohydra­tes, 0 fiber, 16 g sugar, 9 g fat (5 g saturated), 40 mg cholestero­l, 85 mg sodium

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[DEB LINDSEY/FOR THE WASHINGTON POST]

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