Sophisticated fare rises above several glitches in execution
The first Harvest Pizzeria was an immediate sensation when it opened in 2011. By serving then-rare-in-town Neapolitan pies with farmto-table toppings, plus other refined fare such as foie gras “sans gavage” (since discontinued) and beverages more commonly seen in finedining restaurants, Harvest — like Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, which Harvest recalls down to its seasalted butterscotch budino — raised the bar on what a local pizzeria could be.
In addition to subsequently opening other terrific eateries such as The Sycamore and Cosecha Cocina, Harvest restaurateur Chris Crader and his Grow Restaurant Group have launched several more Harvests. Rather than generating exact clones, though, Grow has bestowed each Harvest with distinct features.
The new Harvest Tavern and Pizzeria in Grandview Heights — the subject of this review — is distinguished by an inspired collaboration with The Butcher & Grocer, an esteemed local-sourcing strip-mall neighbor. Although execution glitches compromised many neobistro-style items I tried, this meeting of like minds results in consistently bold and delicious dishes.
You might not pick that up from Harvest’s understated, primarily wood-and-brick interior. It’s roomy and comfortable enough and has stark and arty farmthemed photographs, but the flagrantly brown, sleek and modern space verges on appearing nondescript.
That impression improves as you sip one of the place’s Ohio-brewed beers, decent wines or good house cocktails, such as the “Grow’s Old Together” ($13), a well-integrated drink that riffs on an old fashioned and is amusingly presented in a chilled glass flask. For something lighter and brighter, The shrimp and grits at Harvest Tavern and PIzzeria in Grandview Heights What: Harvest Tavern and Pizzeria Where: 1099 W. 1st Ave. Contact: 614-914-5807, www. harvestpizzeria.com/locations/ grandview/ Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and noon to 9 p.m. Sundays Rating: (out of five)
Price range: $12 to $24 Ambience: sleek, modern, largely brown-and-brick space with knowledgeable servers Children’s menu: no Reservations: no Accessible: yes Liquor license: full bar Quick click: The pizzeria fare is great in this new branch of the Columbus-created elite pizza chain, but its delicious bistrostyle dishes have been prone to fixable miscues. 1099 W 1st Ave.