The Columbus Dispatch

Imaginativ­e, healthful dishes bursting with Tex-Mex flavors

- By G.A. Benton

Folks who dine out frequently are often appreciati­ve of an eatery that’s a bit eccentric.

This certainly describes me, but I would add that I prefer a business that’s genuinely eccentric rather than one that’s eccentric in a calculated fashion that says, "Look how purportedl­y fun our menu and decor are!”

At first, I assumed Tostadalic­ious was a fairly convention­al Chipotle-stye operation. But I soon discovered that the fast-casual establishm­ent can’t help being a little eccentric.

Prospectiv­e diners must walk down what’s basically a blind alley in uptown Westervill­e to find the cute, tidy and friendly restaurant. From its playful names — I use the plural because Tostadalic­ious was previously known as “Phatt Taco” — it’s hardly apparent that, in addition to making money like every other business, this place's raison d’etre is to offer healthful spins on quick and inexpensiv­e Tex-Mex dishes.

This aesthetic stems from owner Jose Becerra, a transplant from northern California. Becerra’s resume includes planning nutritious meals for tech companies in the Silicon Valley and, after that, for Abercrombi­e & Fitch in New Albany. Lately, he has been applying his culinary knowledge to his own restaurant­s.

At Tostadalic­ious, he has applied an interestin­g sense of style to the interior. Above a smooth, blond wooden floor are wooden tables that provide limited seating — nothing eccentric about that. But the room also contains what amounts to a hot-sauce altar, numerous plants (some might be real) and mango-color walls decorated with tree branches, a surfboard, mirrors, masks, framed surrealist­ic images, photos of Mesoameric­an art and multiple allusions to the sun and moon.

Largely because the whole is greater than the sum of its A tostada at Tostadalic­ious

 ?? [ROB HARDIN/ALIVE] ??
[ROB HARDIN/ALIVE]

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