The Columbus Dispatch

VEGAN

- Joller@dispatch.com @juliaoller

Harper, 31. “My mom was like: ‘Why aren’t you eating my turkey? You love my turkey.’”

Barbara Beach, Harper’s mother, at first resisted the break with tradition. But four years of eating Harper’s vegetable-based side dishes have changed her mind.

“Their food was so good that there weren’t any leftovers of their side dishes, whereas the typical side dishes — the green-bean casserole — were all left,” said Beach, 62, of Grand Haven, Michigan.

Nearly 90 percent of those celebratin­g Thanksgivi­ng on Thursday will sit down to a golden turkey, according to the National Turkey Federation.

For the first time,

Harper’s family will enjoy an entirely meatfree, dairy-free and egg-free meal.

She’ll pack up cooking utensils, potatoes and cashew cheese and drive to Grand Haven, where eager relatives have warmed to her menu.

This year, that includes cheesy Brussels sprouts casserole, mashed golden and red potatoes, a vegan “turkey” roast from Trader Joe’s and a pie from vegan bakery Pattycake.

“People don’t care if it’s vegan or not; if it tastes good, people are going to want seconds,” Harper said. “That’s what we want — food (that) people will love and get again and again.”

Portia Yiamouyian­nis had less convincing to do to bring her non-vegan extended family over to the gobbler-free side.

The owner of vegan and gluten-free Portia’s Cafe in Clintonvil­le once let her relatives tackle

the turkey while she tended to everything else, but when no one ate the bird, they quit it altogether.

As long as the flavors of Thanksgivi­ng — nutmeg, sage, salty butter — are present in the food, and as long as that food is wellprepar­ed, she said, meatlessne­ss doesn’t matter.

She and her daughter prepare between 15 and 20 dishes, including a turkey roll made from seitan, a wheat-based meat substitute.

“They eat what I serve them,” she said. “Probably because it tastes good and (they) don’t have to make it. There’s plenty to eat, so it’s not like they’re missing out on anything.”

For those who aren’t in charge of the family meal, Yiamouyian­nis, 49, recommends taking one vegan or vegetarian dish made for sharing.

A smorgasbor­d of options plus a positive

outlook will lead to an inclusive meal, she said.

Cecilia Bulgrin is hoping the chef’s words hold true.

This holiday will mark her first Thanksgivi­ng as a vegan — she became a vegetarian in 2017 — and will be attending a family celebratio­n with a typical spread.

The 20-year-old University of Cincinnati student plans to show up at her Columbus home toting vegan macaroni and cheese stuffed into a sweet potato.

She has had to explain her food decisions multiple times, but most family members have been understand­ing.

“Nobody’s over here making the fake macand-cheese, but they’re all pretty chill about it,” she said.

Plus, less turkey means more room for her mom’s special Brussels sprouts. For a healthier vegan option without missing out on taste, try this for your Thanksgivi­ng side. Makes 6 to 8 servings 1 tablespoon olive oil (optional) 1 small or ½ of large onion, diced 1 pound mushrooms sliced 1 quart vegetable broth ¼ cup Bragg's Liquid Aminos (or soy sauce to taste)

cup rice flour 3 tablespoon­s nutritiona­l yeast

Saute onions in olive oil (or water a little at a time to prevent burning) until translucen­t. Set aside.

Saute mushrooms in same pan, no oil necessary, until most of the water is cooked out.

Add onions and rest of ingredient­s, except nutritiona­l yeast; bring to a boil and simmer until thick, about 10 minutes

Add nutritiona­l yeast and serve or blend for a smooth chunk-free gravy. Water, enough water to barely cover potatoes; set water aside after cooking 3 pounds potatoes, cubed ½ head of cauliflowe­r, roughly cut ¼ cup Earth Balance Buttery Spread (optional) (soy- free options available) Salt and pepper to taste

Cover potatoes with water, then add cauliflowe­r on top and cook until tender.

Mash potatoes and cauliflowe­r together with the saved potato/cauliflowe­r water.

Add Earth Balance or salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy with the gravy.

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