The Columbus Dispatch

Simple cooking best for tenderloin

- America's Test Kitchen

The center-cut tenderloin — often called chateaubri­and — comes from the middle of the whole beef tenderloin, which sits beneath the spine of the animal and gets no exercise, making it the most tender piece of beef you can buy. We knew that a simple preparatio­n would let the exceptiona­l texture shine.

Tying the roast at intervals with kitchen twine made it more compact and helped give it an even shape, which promoted even cooking. To boost the tenderloin's mild flavor and help it hold on to its juices, we salted the roast before cooking.

A smear of softened butter added before cooking also helped counteract the leanness and mildness of this cut with a minimum of fuss.

We then used a reversesea­r method, roasting the meat first and then finishing it by searing it in a skillet. Starting the roast in a fairly cool 300-degree oven minimized the temperatur­e differenti­al between the exterior and interior, allowing for gentle, even cooking.

This approach also dried out the surface of the meat so that it then seared quickly in the skillet — leaving no

chance for it to overcook.

We finished by slathering the roast with a flavored butter as it rested. As the savory butter melted, it became an instant sauce.

ROAST BEEF TENDERLOIN

Makes 4 servings

From "How to Roast Everything" by America's Test Kitchen.

Beef:

1 (2-pound) center-cut beef tenderloin roast, trimmed, tail end tucked, and tied at 1½-inch intervals

2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoon­s unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon vegetable oil Shallot and parsley butter: 4 tablespoon­s unsalted butter, softened

½ shallot, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1 garlic clove, minced ¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

For the beef: Sprinkle roast evenly with salt, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperatur­e for 1 hour. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

For the shallot-and-parsley butter: Combine all ingredient­s in bowl and let rest to blend flavors, about 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap, roll into log, and refrigerat­e until serving.

Pat roast dry with paper towels. Sprinkle roast evenly with pepper and spread softened butter evenly over surface. Transfer roast to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Roast until beef registers 120 degrees to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 40 to 55 minutes, flipping roast halfway through roasting.

Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown roast well on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer roast to carving board and spread 2 tablespoon­s flavored butter evenly over top of roast; let rest for 30 minutes. Remove twine and slice into ½-inch-thick slices.

Serve, passing remaining flavored butter separately.

PER SERVING: 470 calories, 43 g protein, 2 g carbohydra­tes, 1 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 32 g fat (10 g saturated), 136 mg cholestero­l, 835 mg sodium

 ?? [JOE KELLER/AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN] ?? Roast beef tenderloin, aka chateaubri­and
[JOE KELLER/AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN] Roast beef tenderloin, aka chateaubri­and

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