The Columbus Dispatch

Neighborho­od vibe pairs with bar food

- By Gary Seman Jr. For The Columbus Dispatch onrestaura­nts@ dispatch.com

City Tavern believes its approachab­le, largely house-made fare is the recipe for success.

The tavern, which has taken over part of the old Wonder Bread factory in Italian Village, celebrates its two-year anniversar­y in March.

“We just wanted good, traditiona­l bar food but done well and served in a friendly environmen­t,” manager Rachel Frye said. “We’re definitely going for that neighborho­od vibe.”

The City Shrooms appetizer ($9) is a warm dip featuring button mushrooms, ground pork, fresh jalapenos, melted cream cheese and Parmesan, served with toasted crostini.

“It is creamy, cheesy, spicy — very good,” Frye said. “It’s a staff favorite, for sure. It’s definitely unique to us.”

Hungarian peppers ($8) are stuffed with house-seasoned Italian ground pork and cheese. The dish is baked in the oven until soft, but there's still a little crunch in the vegetable. It is finished with mozzarella and provolone and served with marinara on the side.

The Reuben sandwich ($13) is a little unconventi­onal, as the corned beef is slow-cooked until The City Shrooms appetizer

it’s fall-apart tender. It’s layered with Swiss cheese and sauerkraut on marbled pumpernick­el, with Thousand Island dressing on the side.

“It’s more like you’re eating pot roast,” Frye said of the meat. “It’s thicker. It’s a big sandwich.”

There’s more than one spicy dish on the menu at City Tavern. A popular choice is the Fire Bird chicken sandwich ($13), a grilled breast covered in a sambalsrir­acha aioli, cheddar, house-peppered bacon and pickles cured in a jalapeno brine.

“Anybody with a general spice tolerance is usually fine with it, but I’ve had people say, ‘Ooh, it’s got some heat to it,’” Frye said.

Another is the 670 Burger ($13), made with fresh, never-frozen beef and topped with a hot-and-sweet jalapeno pickle mix, peppered bacon, cheddar, barbecue sauce and onion straws.

One of the heartier salads ($10) combines quinoa, shredded Brussels sprouts, baby kale, carrots, kohlrabi and red cabbage, tossed in a house-made lemon vinaigrett­e and finished with sunflower seeds and shaved Parmesan. Add chicken for $4 or salmon for $5.

“It’s very filling while being light,” Frye said. “Everything in it is pretty good for you.”

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 ?? [BARBARA J. PERENIC/DISPATCH PHOTOS] ?? The Reuben sandwich
[BARBARA J. PERENIC/DISPATCH PHOTOS] The Reuben sandwich
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