Cucumber salad a refreshing side dish
The most memorable summer meals don’t hinge on a single perfect dish. Instead, it is the interplay of multiple plates and platters — like a great mezze — that transforms them into an occasion. And a well-executed simple side is as critical to the whole menu as anything that might have taken hours to compose.
This salad combines two components, crisp cucumbers and creamy yogurt dressing, to lend a cooling counterpoint to any summer menu.
To make, toss bite-size pieces of cucumber with a spiced oil that has been warmed just enough to make the coriander, cumin and red-pepper flakes bloom. Splash in a little vinegar, then set aside in the refrigerator to pick up the spices’ flavors. To a thick, full-fat yogurt or labneh, toss in a series of herbs: Cucumber and dill or cucumber and mint? Add both, and some parsley and lemon zest. Each element folds into the others without overpowering the whole.
In the finished dish, the cold cucumbers retain their freshness and carry a little heat as well as earthy notes from the other spices. The lemon and herbs in the yogurt offer subtleties of their own while tempering the cucumber marinade’s warmth. A satisfying contrast of textures awaits you on the plate as the crisp cucumbers sink into the smooth, tangy yogurt. It is this balance that helps the dish stand on its own as a snack or a simple salad.
This cold-marinated cucumber salad pairs well with sizzling kebabs right off the grill, smoky glazed chicken thighs with a good amount of char or sweet corn dripping with butter. It also pairs nicely with a seltzer and lime, a gin and tonic or a chilled riesling. With the right balance of competing and complementary flavors, this salad is the right accompaniment to the grilled meats or vegetables of summer, whether it is an elaborate dinner or a leisurely alfresco lunch.
SPICY CUCUMBERS WITH YOGURT, LEMON AND HERBS
Makes 4 servings
1½ pounds Persian cucumbers (about 8), ends trimmed and quartered lengthwise into spears, then crosswise into 2-inch pieces 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to
taste
¼ cup grapeseed oil or other neutral oil, such as canola, safflower, sunflower oil
1 teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt
½ cup mint leaves, thinly sliced
¼ cup dill, chopped
¼ cup parsley leaves and tender
stems, chopped 1 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
Black pepper
¼ cup pine nuts (optional)
Toss the cucumber pieces with 1 teaspoon salt and set in a colander in the sink to drain.
In a small pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the coriander and cumin, and toast until fragrant, stirring to avoid scorching, about 1 minute. Remove oil from heat, add red-pepper flakes and allow to cool.
In a medium bowl, toss the salted cucumber pieces with the scallions, spiced oil and apple cider vinegar. Allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 15 minutes or overnight while you prepare the yogurt.
In a small bowl, combine the yogurt, half of the herbs (mint, dill and parsley), zest and juice of the lemon and the olive oil. Stir to incorporate, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Spread the yogurt mixture on a plate or the bottom of a shallow bowl. Using a slotted spoon to drain the cucumbers and scallions of excess liquid, evenly place the cucumbers and scallions on top of the yogurt. Finish with the remaining chopped herbs and pine nuts (if using), and serve immediately.
Note: A nutritional analysis is not available.