Dairy Dose an effective antidote for weird summer
With August dwindling away — can you believe it? — we’re about to close the book on a strange summer. This got me wondering what that book’s title might be.
“I Was Supposed To Go To Italy But We Weren’t Allowed Into Europe” bursts to mind, but maybe that’s too specific.
“It Was Steaming Hot And There Was Little To Do” sounds widely relatable, but perhaps that’s too much of a bummer.
After more thought — and visiting cheeky, cheerful and eminently likable Dairy Dose — I have decided that “Some Of It Was Fun” would be an apt title for a book about the summer.
Dairy Dose, a stylish takeout operation modeled after summery snack shacks, is the (ostensibly temporary) new face of The Market Italian Village. This is an inspired act of reinvention for a restaurant during these dire times, especially for a fine-dining place such as The Market Italian Village.
Under the banner — some might say “freak flag” — of Dairy Dose, The Market
is embracing countercultural flamboyance, branding that references psychedelia, and this goofy nickname for its current avatar: “Market IV on acid.”
Because it offers a walk-up window (and access to a lovely little patio) for local-ingredients-sourced, reimagined dairy bar “hot treats” and alcoholspiked “cool treats,” another tagline for Dairy Dose might have been: “Top Chef: Dairy Queen with Booze.”
The eatery’s menu header of “Wieners” offers $6 bargains that arrive
outrageously dressed in garnishes. These include a large and irresistible corn dog with outre but delicious purple blackberry mustard, beer-vinegar aioli, dried-cheese sprinkles and a mixed-veggie relish.
Beneath these appealingly garish decorations was a comforting cornmeal jacket encasing a garlicky, juicy weenie.
Two “wieners” that were also winners but presented in hot-dog buns are the Dairy Dose Dog — a hot dog lashed in house sauces (truffle-ranch, gooey and tangy cheese called “Delice Whiz” and a spaghetti-suitable “pepperoni bolognese”) that played off basil leaves, fried capers, fried breadcrumbs and pickled wild mushrooms; and the Falafel Dog — a zesty chickpea-based “tube steak” embellished with hummus, crispy pistachio dukkah (herband-spice blend), mint leaves and other condiments.
Sides range from seasonal to timeless. The former include inhalable Mexican-style corn fashioned with halved local cobs (two per order, $8) named Shakedown Street Corn after a Grateful Dead album; plus a trickedout, Mediterranean-influenced heirloom Tomato Salad that benefited from tableside blending ($8).
Dairy Dose’s evergreen sides comprise flavorful Waffle Fries — unfortunately, mine were undercooked — blanketed in Delice Whiz ($8); good curly fries animated by spice-scented flour that apparently includes “Mary Jane seasoning” ($4); and addictive Onion Petals ($4) perked up with Parmesan, pepper and more.
Items listed under “Sammies” come with one of those two last sides (go “team onion”). These include the Fried Phish Filet ($14), an upgraded riff on a similar seafood sandwich from Dairy
Queen that I am quite familiar with (I live two blocks from a DQ).
The standout Double Dose Chz sammie ($12) doesn’t much resemble other burgers. What the umami-forward construction of balsamic caramelized onions, seared patties of good beef, house curry ketchup, Delice Whiz and more, mostly brought to mind was a delicious shawarma.
For the full Dairy Dose effect, it’s best eaten with a refreshing rum-and-aperol-fortified Orange Sunshine Creamsicle “slushie” ($15); an enormous vanilla shake ($15) whose overproof rum, chocolate liqueur, Amarena cherries and goat cheese provide White Russian cocktail notes; or a highly recommended soft serve du jour — mine was a creamy and caramelly Cherry Coke ($5) with a Fernet Branca floater ($5 extra).
Enjoying these treats on the scenic patio while outdoor speakers played carpe diem-urging tunes such as “The Trip” by Kim Fowley and the appropriately titled “Doses & Mimosas” by Cherub, momentarily had me feeling hopeful about the next chapter in this one-for-the books year.
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