High-temperature Spanish ovens provide the spark for new Polaris-area restaurant
Patrick Daly bought his oven system long before he had a place to put it.
After a trip to Spain to learn more about the Josper ovens and their myriad functions, Daly snatched up a pair. Then, he needed a place to put them — and a menu that illustrated their unique cooking functions.
Daly, who also owns Atlas Tavern near Polaris Fashion Place, found a space nearby at 2050 Polaris Parkway, the site of the old Sweet Carrot.
Nomad Hot Kitchen & Cool Spirits, Daly’s latest venue, opened Friday and takes full advantage of the charcoal-fired oven, which has rotating handles that lower and heighten the grill over the heat. A handful of wood is thrown on top of the coal to give the food items a smoky flavor.
His other Josper is another charcoal-fired oven, which also uses wood for flavor. It can reach temperatures of 1,000 degrees and vent the heat to rise or drop quickly; he cooks most of his meats and vegetables at 500 to 600 degrees.
Daly points to the wagyu steak — the most expensive dish at $50 — topped with chimichurri compound butter and served with fries.
“Wagyu — that’s the thing,” he said of the heavily marbled, tender cut of beef. “Steaks really shine on this oven. The oven’s only half the battle. You need to have a great ingredient.”
Another signature dish is the pork chops, with grilled peaches, andouille cheddar grits and charred green beans.
The interior of Nomad, which seats 60 with current social-distancing limits in place, offers mostly wood with black accents, glazed ebony tiles, modern lighting fixtures and a full-service bar.
“We knew we were going to go with an open kitchen, so we didn’t skimp on anything,” said Daly, who has two partners in the venture, Marco Piazza and Greg Donofrio.
Daly said he signed the lease in December, which gave him and chef John Bruno, formerly of Harvest Pizzeria, time to work out a menu.
The bill of fare, Daly said, isn’t all about meats. The tuna steak, for example, offers a rare filet with bourbonbarrel teriyaki and chilled sesame noodle salad.
Prosciutto-wrapped scallops are tossed with linguine, basil and cherry tomatoes in a creamy brie sauce. Most entrée prices are $12 to $25. For now, there is no delivery service, but that will be added in the next couple of weeks, Daly said. Lunch hours also are in the offing, he said.
Hours are 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and 4 to 9 p.m. Sundays. The restaurant is closed Mondays. For more information, call 614-505-8466.
Puff piece
Two legendary food companies, two popular foodstuffs, one iconic result.
Schmidt’s Sausage Haus und Restaurant and Graeter’s Ice Cream have combined forces to offer black raspberry chip cream puffs starting Tuesday at Schmidt’s restaurant, 240 E. Kossuth St. in German Village, and three local food trucks.
The cream puffs, part of Schmidt’s ongoing flavor-of-the-month campaign, will use Graeter’s handmade blackberry puree and dark chocolate chips to re-create the popular ice cream flavor in the dessert. On sale through Sept. 30.
Hey Mama
Dough Mama’s latest location is now open at 730 S. High St. in the Brewery District.
The follow-up to the original store in Clintonville takes over the space formerly occupied by Kolache Republic, which has relocated a few blocks north inside the Daily Growler.
Perrie Wilkof, owner and founder of the pie palace, said the new place offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, and a few new menu items, such as mini pot pies, tuna noodle casserole, kale quesadilla, and espresso and related coffee drinks.
Dough Mama is open Wednesday through Sunday.
Dispatch restaurant reporter Gary Seman Jr. can be reached at onrestaurants@dispatch.com.