Valter’s blends German classics, tavern offerings

Come January, Valter Veliu will celebrate his fifth anniversary of taking over the kitchen at the Columbus Maennerchor in the Brewery District. His restaurant, Valter’s at the Maennerchor, specializes in German fare but draws influences from across the globe.

“It’s still a small menu but we’re trying to cater to different customers,” Veliu said.

Still, German dishes receive the warmest wishes from customers.

The schweinehaxe ($29) is a braised pork shank that is marinated for 24 hours. It is then braised in a liquid of cola, spices (white pepper, smoked paprika and chili powder, among them) and cooked for six hours.

“It is so, so tasty,” Veliu said. “You take a bite of it and say, ‘Oh my Lord.’”

The pork shank is served with sides of a vinegary potato salad and homemade sauerkraut.

The jaegerschnitzel ($23) is another house favorite, with a pounded-thin veal cutlet that is dredged in flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs. It is ladled in a reduction of wine, mushrooms, “never enough” garlic and other seasonings.

It is served in a bed of spaetzle, imported from Germany, that is boiled and finished in the skillet with butter, salt and pepper.

Grilled pistachio crusted-lamb chops ($33), lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, are paired with a round of goat cheese that is formed into a round, egg washed, rolled in bread crumbs and cast-iron cooked until it’s soft. The plate is served with warm baguette.

Deep-fried sauerkraut balls ($12) are a big hit at the restaurant. Homemade sauerkraut and corned beef (depending on the fat content, some ground pork might be added) are blended with onions, cream cheese, fresh parsley, smoked paprika, white pepper, salt and a houseblended creamy horseradish sauce.

“We sell a lot of sauerkraut balls,” Veliu said. “It’s a good appetizer for my restaurant.”

Not traditional German appetizers, the chicken wings ($12) still draw fans because of Veliu’s blended hot sauce. First grilled, the wings are then flashfried for crispiness, and tossed in a hot pepper sauce that has honey mustard, maple syrup, cream and blue cheese.

“It’s a tiny bit sweet, but (it’s) the heat in the back that hits you,” he said.

The toasty Reuben sandwich ($15) takes some time to prepare. For example, the corned beef is cured inhouse. The sauerkraut, meanwhile, is rinsed and skillet fried with Marsala wine and other seasonings. All of the components, including house-mixed thousand island dressing and swiss

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays

Contact: 614-444-3431, www.valtersatthemaennerchor.com cheese, are placed on rye bread from Pittsburgh.

Of Albanian heritage, Veliu said he has cooked in a number of Greek and Mediterranean restaurants but enjoyed switching to a new cuisine.

“It’s a challenging thing,” he said. “It’s good experience.”

onrestaurants@dispatch.com