Fluffy pancakes best when you do less

A common complaint about making pancakes is that you have to cook them one at a time, and by the time the last one is cooked the first ones are cold and tough.

And though most recipes say that — as an optional step — you can keep finished pancakes warm in a low oven while preparing the rest, I make that an essential part of my recipe. Some people only eat pancakes when out at a diner to avoid the whole production, but well, we can’t really do that now, can we? In any case, my secret is: Just make fewer pancakes.

Unless you’re feeding a crowd — which I bet many of us aren’t right now — pancakes are the perfect breakfast for two. I mix up a batter that makes only seven pancakes — one for a first-test pancake and then six to eat; that’s three per person — with a little extra to account for all the batter that clings to your scooping cup and the bowl. That way, from the first pancake to the last, only about 12 minutes goes by and the first pancakes I made are perfectly warm and tender in the oven, not getting too dried out or tough.

I start by making a batter with builtin texture insurance: I add a little cornstarch to the batter to both cut the percentage of protein in the flour, thus making the pancakes more tender, and to give them a finer crumb. Using powdered sugar also helps with the latter, but if all you have is granulated sugar, that works fine too.

I whisk the liquid ingredients — including full-fat milk and butter — into the dry ingredients very gingerly. You want some lumps in your batter because by the time you whisk it completely smooth, you have developed too much gluten and the pancakes will be tougher for it.

I don’t have a griddle, so I cook my pancakes one at a time in a large nonstick skillet (if you have a griddle, though, please use it). Don’t try to cook more than one in a skillet.

Now, let’s talk about that “first pancake.” There is no mystery around why it comes out wonky and pale. The wonkiness comes from not pouring batter into a hot pan regularly, so you have get used to the movement. The paleness comes from the pan not being hot enough yet. Let pancake nature take its course, then toss that first cake to the dog or a tod

dler.

With the first pancake out of the way, get to work. I made this batter to have the ideal viscosity to spread slowly on its own into a perfect round, but if yours comes out a little thick, use the bottom of the measuring cup to smooth its top after you pour it in the skillet. What you’re looking for is for the edges to lose their shine and for bubbles to appear on the top of the pancake. The bubbles will pop, and the loose batter will fill in the gaps. Once this stops happening, they’re ready to flip.

Once the pancake is flipped, it will take about half or one-quarter of the time less than the first side to cook through. The first side will take around 1 minute, so start checking the second side at 30 seconds and don’t let it cook more than 45 seconds. It should be the same color as the top.

Remove the whole skillet from the burner — this keeps it from overheating and throwing off your expert timing, burning the remaining pancakes — and slide the pancake between two kitchen towels on a baking sheet in a low oven. There the pancake will stay warm and the towels will protect it from losing moisture.

Return the skillet to the burner and immediately add another scoop of batter.

BEN MIMS/LOS ANGELES TIMES Fluffy and hot all at the same time, diner-style pancakes are the best breakfast for two.