Just a bit of ancient herb anise adds layers of depth

Here’s how to work it: A X Y D L BA A X R is L O N G F E L L O W

I have been making biscotti and was reminded of how much I love anise. While it is a flavor that is embraced by some and avoided by others, I adore how just a bit of it adds layers of depth to all sorts of culinary treats.

Many get fennel and anise confused, and it’s understandable for many reasons. They taste and look similar, but they are from two different botanical families.

Anise is from the parsley family and fennel from the carrot family.

Anise dates back to at least 1600 B.C. and originated in the region now known as Lebanon as well as parts of Israel and Turkey. It is a relatively small perennial herb that is grown as an annual. Both the green leaves and the unique seeds have a decidedly sweet licorice flavor.

Because of the value of this flavoring agent, it was taxed by early Romans as well as King Edward I. And as popularity spread throughout England, it still wasn’t commercially cultivated there until the 16th century. Like many herbs, it had dual purposes and the seeds were kept in small bags near the bed as a sleep aid.

It is an oil called anethol that provides the wonderfully unique licoricelike flavor that is valued in cooking. It is also found in fennel, again adding to the confusion.

Today, the flavor is key to liqueurs such as Pernod, Ouzo and Anisette. Anise extract is made by combining anise oil, grain alcohol and water. The seeds are correctly called aniseed. They are shaped like tiny light brown commas or crescents and are ribbed.

The seeds should be stored at room temperature in a cool, dark place such as a pantry. It benefits from being kept away from heat and sunlight, which rob the seeds of flavor. Stored correctly, it will last up to four years before beginning to lose potency.

Tammy Algood is the author of five cookbooks and can be seen on “Volunteer Gardener” on PBS stations in Tennessee. Follow her at hauteflavor.com.

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FILE/AP Traditional flavor for biscotti includes anise and almonds.