The Columbus Dispatch

From the Windy City to Arch City

Sono Wood Fired brings modern Italian to Easton

- Gary Seman Jr.

Sono Wood Fired might have its culinary roots in Italy, but the food’s passionate remake was done in Chicago.

Easton Town Center’s latest restaurant, part of the Chicago-based Good Eats Group, is located at 4055 the Strand West.

Martin Murch and John “Mac” Mclean, owners and founders of the restaurant, wanted to create a dynamic experience that offered attractive style notes, a leisurely setting and reimagined Italian cuisine.

“In terms of the idea here, we wanted to have different zones,” Mclean said.

The marble bar is the centerpiec­e, while the adjacent lounge has a colorful mix of seating. The dining room flanks the entire space and foldable glass walls open up to the patio and allow additional natural light to filter inside.

As with most Midwest eateries, TVS are a must. Sono has six tuned into sports viewing.

“We tried to create an experienti­al journey throughout the space,” Mclean said. “It gives our guests the opportunit­y to pick their own journey.”

Upon entering the space, it’s impossible not to notice the two tile-covered wood-fired ovens behind the bar, the gentle aroma of smoke wafting from them.

It’s where may dishes get their start, including the bistecca alla Fiorentino, an aged, prime bone-in strip is seared at a high heat and finished in the kitchen with rosemary garlic butter.

Artisan pizzas are a big draw at the restaurant. For example, one option offers a homemade ‘nduja, a spicy Calabrian spreadable sausage, fresh mozzarella, goat cheese, lemon and oregano.

The ‘nduja makes another appearance in the risotto balls, stuffed with the with the sausage, mozzarella and fried, served with zesty tomato fonduta.

Mclean takes some bold chances, wrapping sea bass in pancetta and roasting in safe garlic butter, and finishing the plate with braised spinach, a parmigiano-reggiano chip and sprinkles of bread crumbs and crispy prosciutto.

Homemade gnocchi are paired with butter-poached lobster, sherry, zesty tomato sauce and a dash of gremolata.

Most starters, salads and sides are $10 to $18; entrees, $28 to $75, pizzas, $18 to $22; and pastas $18 to $32.

Mcclean grew up in kitchens by putting himself through Northern Illinois University. Murch, he said, has a similar background and worked in major hotels. Mclean, who trained in Italy, also

worked for a major restaurant group based in Chicago.

He said they both feel as comfortabl­e in the kitchen as they do in the front of the house. They curated a wine list of 60 varieties from across the globe – even a few choices from Ohio vintners – all stored at the proper temperatur­es.

“We really like our wine here,” Mclean said. “Martin and I thought that was a good start.”

In 2010, they formed their own group,

which has six dining concepts.

Easton’s the only destinatio­n outside of the Windy City for any of the Good Eats Group’s restaurant­s.

“We plan on growing in Columbus,” Mclean said.

Hours are 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays and 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sundays. For more informatio­n, call 380-400-9360.

onrestaura­nts@dispatch.com

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 ?? PHOTOS BY FRED SQUILLANTE/COLUMBUS DISPATCH ?? Sono Wood Fired has opened its first location outside of Chicago at Easton Town Center. The restaurant, part of Good Eats Group, specialize­s in Tuscan cuisine and pizza. The interior of the restaurant as seen on Thursday.
TOP: Easton Town Center’s latest restaurant, part of the Chicago-based Good Eats Group, is located at 4055 the Strand West.
PHOTOS BY FRED SQUILLANTE/COLUMBUS DISPATCH Sono Wood Fired has opened its first location outside of Chicago at Easton Town Center. The restaurant, part of Good Eats Group, specialize­s in Tuscan cuisine and pizza. The interior of the restaurant as seen on Thursday. TOP: Easton Town Center’s latest restaurant, part of the Chicago-based Good Eats Group, is located at 4055 the Strand West.
 ?? FRED SQUILLANTE/COLUMBUS DISPATCH ?? Sono Wood Fired has opened its first location outside of Chicago at Easton Town Center. The restaurant, part of Good Eats Group, specialize­s in Tuscan cuisine and pizza. Chef and co-owner John “Mac” Mclean poses for a portrait at the restaurant on Thursday.
FRED SQUILLANTE/COLUMBUS DISPATCH Sono Wood Fired has opened its first location outside of Chicago at Easton Town Center. The restaurant, part of Good Eats Group, specialize­s in Tuscan cuisine and pizza. Chef and co-owner John “Mac” Mclean poses for a portrait at the restaurant on Thursday.

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