The Columbus Dispatch

Dosa Corner has more than one South Indian specialty

- Gary Seman Jr.

For 20 years, Dosa Corner has been serving its South Indian dish from a humble, out-of-the-way restaurant on the Northwest Side.

The no-frills restaurant, owned by Hebbaka “Hari” and Girija Narahari, is vegetarian but not quite vegan because of the occasional use of dairy (butter, cream, yogurt and others).

The signature dish, one particular style of dosa, starts with rice and lentils, which are soaked for several hours and then ground. The mixture also is left to sit in water while it ferments, tuning into a sort of pancake patter.

The batter is then placed on a hot flattop griddle, spread thin and cooked to a crispy golden brown.

The mysore masala dosa ($10.49) mixes onions, spices and chutney into the batter.

All are served with sambar, a type of vegetable stew, and coconut chutney.

The masala dosa ($8.99) offers

mashed potatoes seasoned with complex spices stuffed into the crispy crepe.

Utensils are provided. However, “It’s OK to eat with your hands,” said Hari Narahari, who credits his wife with the recipes and occasional­ly intricate cooking techniques associated with certain dishes.

Not on the menu but available by request,

the rava dosa ($11.49) uses semolina and two other types of flour and is known for its thin, porous appearance. Seasoned with onion, it also is traditiona­lly spicy with chile peppers, Narahari said.

There also are seven types of uttapam, a savory Indian pancake that can be topped with onions, chiles, coriander, vegetables and other ingredient­s.

Narahari suggests onions and chiles ($8.99).

The lemon rice ($7.99) has more depth than it sounds. Dosa Corner uses a long-grain rice, soft on the tooth, and myriad ingredient­s — garam masala, curry leaves, cilantro, chiles, cashews and a dash of salt and sugar. A fresh squeeze of lemon juice brightens up the whole dish, Narahari said.

The restaurant has several styles of bread but one of the more intriguing options is the aloo paratha ($4.99), a grilled wheat bread containing potatoes and Indian seasonings.

A popular beverage choice is the mango lassi ($3.79), a smooth blend of mango and yogurt. Another lassi option is one made with mango, vanilla ice cream and milk ($3.79), which is more like a milkshake, Narahari said.

For a classic appetizer, the samosas ($4.79 for two) feature a crunchy exterior made from a pie-like crust, which envelops a mashed-potato interior holding peas and seasoned with curry leaf and garam masala.

“There’s a special way of (manipulati­ng the finicky dough. It’s a little bit tricky,” he said, adding that the dish is served with two chutneys: sweet-andtangy tamarind and refreshing mint-cilantro.

 ?? GARY SEMAN JR. ?? A masala dosa served with sambar and coconut chutney (center).
GARY SEMAN JR. A masala dosa served with sambar and coconut chutney (center).

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