Harrison site makeover a must-see for history buffs
INDIANAPOLIS – Ohio may be called “The Mother of Presidents,” but the state doesn't really get credit for native son Benjamin Harrison, who moved to Indiana as a young man and considered himself a Hoosier for the rest of his life.
Buckeye history buffs, however, shouldn't hold that indiscretion against Harrison, elected the 23rd U.S. president in 1888.
Earlier this year, the Harrison Presidential Site in Indianapolis unveiled a magnificent $6.8 million remodel, including $2 million in renovations on the 10,000 square-foot Italianate brick home Harrison and his wife Caroline built in 1875.
The drive to the site is less than three hours from Columbus, and well worth the time for anyone looking for a history-centered day trip or weekend getaway.
Harrison was born in North Bend, Ohio, near the farm of his grandfather and ninth president William Henry Harrison.
The younger Harrison attended Miami University before beginning his law career in Indianapolis, where he lived the rest of his life with the exception of the years he spent in Washington.
The Harrison Presidential Site now occupies 2.5 acres near downtown Indianapolis and includes the Harrison house, a visitors center and lovely grounds including a plaza that hosts public events such as an annual naturalization ceremony for new U.S. citizens. (Harrison was president when the first U.S. immigration station at Ellis Island opened.)
Harrison was also known for his devotion to civil rights (Frederick Douglass was a supporter of his presidential campaign), for promoting the flying of the U.S. flag at public offices and schools, and for his conservation efforts including the preservation of 13 million acres for national forests.
A new research library dedicated to presidential studies is located in the home's former third-floor ballroom. Also on the third floor is museum space that currently houses an exhibit detailing the Harrison Administration's efforts to promote trade and diplomatic relations between the countries of North and South America.
The rest of the house has been restored to look as it would have during the Harrisons' lives.
Some of the most interesting anecdotes that visitors learn involve the Harrison family, including first lady Caroline Harrison, who was a music teacher,
accomplished painter and advocate for women's rights.
The newly renovated Harrison house reflects some of Caroline's artistic touches. Throughout the house, visitors will see colorful wallpapers re-created
from the originals the Harrisons chose, and many of Caroline's original paintings and other artwork including a series of lovely plates decorated with painted birds.
The house is furnished with period furniture and fixtures, about 75% original to the Harrisons, offering an authentic look at the family's life in late 19th century Indianapolis.
Visitors will also hear many fascinating stories about the Harrisons' presidential years, including Caroline's oversight of extensive renovations of the White House, which had been allowed to deteriorate alarmingly. Improvements included electrification, redecorating and purchase of new furniture, replacing rotting floorboards, and ridding the building of a rat infestation (by hiring ferrets).
The Harrisons brought a large family to the White House including their daughter, grandchildren and Caroline's father. Sadly, Caroline died in the White House from tuberculosis in 1892, and first lady duties passed to the Harrisons' daughter, Mary Harrison Mckee.
The Harrisons also had several pets at the White House including Old Whiskers, the presidential goat (really!), who
was often harnessed to a small cart to pull Harrison's grandchildren, including young Benjamin Harrison Mckee, known by all as “Baby Mckee.”
On one occasion, Old Whiskers took issue with his lot and ran off as Baby Mckee bounced in the cart behind. The president himself chased down the runaway cart, stopping it before goat, cart or grandson got into further mischief, and delighting the White House press corps.
(An illustrated children's book detailing the adventure is available at the site's gift shop.)
After his single term, Harrison returned to his house in Indianapolis, remarried and had another daughter. Harrison died in the house in 1901.
Guided tours of the Harrison Presidential Site, 1230 N. Delaware St. in Indianapolis, are offered daily. Tickets are $14 for adults, $9 for children and college students with ID. Visit the Harrison Presidential Site website (bhpsite.org) for tour times and advance ticket purchase. Tickets purchased 24 or more hours in advance get a $2 discount.
Steve Stephens is a freelance travel writer and photographer. Email him at sjstephensjr@gmail.com.