Bel­mont Ger­man­town keeps faves but up­dates menu and decor

The Commercial Appeal - Go Memphis - - GO EAT DINING REVIEWS, BEST BETS & MORE -

cat­fish strips or shrimp with some darn de­cent onion rings. You can still get wings (they don’t taste the same as the ones at the East Mem­phis Bel­mont, but they’re good wings), and you can get a plate of what I think are the best bar ta­males in town, big, spicy and meaty ta­males cov­ered in chili, cheese and onions.

(Don’t put these, cov­ered and smoth­ered, in a cat­e­gory with true Delta ta­males, wet Mem­phis ta­males or the var­i­ous His­panic ta­males avail­able around town; this is a cat­e­gory that has more in com­mon with na­chos.)

The Bel­mont burger re­mains, cooked to or­der and served on a French roll. You can still or­der po­tato skins.

But if you have a taste for hot and sweet oys­ters, you’re also in the right place. These are mighty tasty, but “hot and sweet” led me to ex­pect an Asian in­flu­ence, and these are more Buf­falo style. Crisp fried oys­ters are tossed in a sauce, one very much like wing sauce, then served in oys­ter shells topped with crum­bled blue cheese and sliv­ers of green onion. We made quick work of them, but I pre­ferred the pork belly slid­ers, melt­ingly ten­der rich pork belly nes­tled be­tween toasted slider buns, stopped with Asian slaw and pan juices.

The slid­ers were on the spe­cial menu, which will change ev­ery two weeks (though items might reap­pear). An en­tree called “lob­ster chunks” could do with a bet­ter name, but we were taken with it. Scal­lops, each topped with a dol­lop of lob­ster cream sauce and a chunk of lob­ster, sat atop a bed of rich risotto pep­pered with gar­licky sauteed kale and sliv­ered brus­sels sprouts.

Look for more like this from Meit­zler, who comes with ex­pe­ri­ence at On Teur, Cafe 61 and Lo­cal un­der his toque. He’ll play with strong fla­vors and con­tinue to mod­ify the menu. Derk’s Fa­mous Craw­fish Mac & Cheese is a new ad­di­tion to the menu, and bravo on the top­ping: I strongly pre­fer

PHOTOS BY NIKKI BOERTMAN/THE COM­MER­CIAL AP­PEAL

Of­fers at the Bel­mont Grill Ger­man­town in­clude (clock­wise from top left): Hot and sweet oys­ters, fried crisp and served with a spicy sauce, topped with blue cheese: smoked prime pork chops are cut off the rack to or­der, served with an apri­cot bar­be­cue...

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