The Commercial Appeal - Go Memphis
A look at Acre’s new menu and backyard patio
Tucked behind Acre is a hidden garden oasis. Surrounded by lush foliage, this East Memphis restaurant’s backyard patio feels more like dining in a hidden garden rather than at a restaurant on a busy street.
It’s the perfect spot to dine al fresco at all times, but especially during this strange age of COVID-19. Open only for dinner, the shade from the trees lining the patio keeps the space cool on a steamy Memphis summer night. I met a group of friends there recently at 6:30 p.m, and I was very comfortable sitting outdoors.
Not only is the space lovely, so is the food.
Wally Joe opened Acre in 2011 in an East Memphis home that was converted into a rustic yet elegant restaurant. The acclaimed chef and executive chef Andrew Adams are known for innovative cuisine using locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant reopened in June after being closed since March.
A current trend I am noticing is that Memphis’ chefs used the downtime of quarantine to recharge and reinvent their menus. It’s a trend that is exciting for longtime fans of these restaurants. Not that these chefs didn’t always bring their A-game before, but now they have found ways to thoughtfully and creatively raise the bar on their already renowned culinary creations. Joe and Adams are prime examples.
Start with a dish or two off the “Small Plates” menu.
The Hamachi Tartar ($16) is a refreshing and light appetizer. The tender and delicately flavored raw fish is tossed with small pieces of juicy watermelon bursting with flavor. White soy ginger brings the dish together.
Two dishes I will try on my next visit are the Sweet Corn Soup ($15), which is listed being garnished with huitlacoche, tomato, bacon, basil and a tempura fried zucchini blossom, and the Roasted Pork Belly ($15), which comes with cornbread, pickled cucumber, tomato and a smoked almond pesto. Both sound like delicious spins on two of my favorite in
At a glance Acre
Where:
690 S. Perkins Road 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-saturday; reservations only
Hours:
(901) 818-2273 acrememphis.com
Reservations accepted for the main dining room and the patio. gredients.
My friends and I also split a few of the dishes on the “For the Table” menu. These are dishes and sides meant to be shared between two or three guests.
The Fava Bean Agnolotti ($15) was a tender pasta stuffed with a fava bean puree and tossed in a brown butter and pancetta sauce.
The Smoked Creamy Farro ($12) was a dish that I probably wouldn’t normally order, but I was so glad my friend did. This grain was cooked perfectly and tossed in a slightly smoky, but not overpowering, creamy sauce. Pieces of fried okra garnished the top, adding a bit of crispiness to each bite. It was comfort food at its best.
Adams is known for his creative vegetable dishes, and his selection of sides to share on the new menu reflects that creativity and ingenuity. The Roasted Baby Carrots ($12) are garnished with avocado, walnuts, labneh and a white truffle honey vinaigrette. I’ll be ordering this dish every visit.
I split the Whole Black Bass ($35) with one of my friends. The fish comes to the table deep-fried with a chile-ponzu dipping sauce on the side. The fish was perfectly cooked — each bite tender, flaky and moist with a crispy crust. It was actually easy to share as we each took half of the fish, transferring our halves to our own plates.
Another order at the table was the 14ounce NY Strip ($42). The perfectly cooked piece of prime beef was served with a green peppercorn sauce.
Two of my friends had recently tried the 20-ounce Bone-in Veal “Crepinette” ($45). From the way the raved about this stuffed veal chop, I will be ordering it on my next visit.
Somehow we still had room for dessert. The Gianduja Hazelnut Chocolate Tart ($10) and the Sticky Toffee Date Cake ($9) were worth every calorie.
I should also note that Acre has impeccable service that is attentive and welcoming.
During the pandemic, Acre is only
Phone:
Online:
Reservations:
open for dinner, and reservations must be made.
Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.
In addition to general capacity controls — including the limiting of large group visits — all museum staff will wear masks and/or other protective gear. Museum guests over the age of 4 will also be required to wear masks. Acrylic sneeze guards have been installed at the museum’s entry, and commonly used items in the displays — such as headphones in music listening stations — have been removed for the time being. Hand sanitizing stations have been placed throughout the facilities as well. In addition, all admissions and merchandise sales will be cashless