Get real in the Dominican Republic
Unspoiled Samaná is worth the extra effort
Most first-time visitors to the Dominican Republic flock to the all-inclusive beach resorts of Punta Cana, where packaged tourism has been polished, shined and sandpapered into a formidable product. While a beach, buffet and booze vacation will have appeal for many, there are some visitors who will pine for a more authentic Dominican experience. One option is to vacation in the less-visited Samaná Peninsula on the Dominican Republic’s northeastern shore.
Reaching Samaná takes more effort. Direct international flights to the region’s Samaná El Catey International Airport are in short supply. Most visitors bound for Samaná will use connecting flights from Punta Cana or opt for a two-hour drive from the capital city of Santo Domingo, along a new and modern highway.
So why make this greater effort? Because on arrival, visitors will find a region that has its own remarkable history, superb eco-attractions and noncookie-cutter hotels and restaurants. All of this is set in a jungle-lush natural setting of rainforests and coconut plantations. During my visit, my guide noted that Samaná Peninsula had 110,000 residents and 6 million palm trees.
Samaná’s tourism center is Las Terrenas, a town of roughly 14,000 people. Over the years, Samaná has attracted more European vacationers than those from the U.S. Europeans are attracted to the rustic restaurants that serve local fare and the option to sleep in either luxury resorts or funky eco- and budgetfriendly hotels.
Samaná’s main appeal is its natural attractions. These include stunning white-sand beaches such as Rincon and Coson and the trio of waterfalls that makes up El Limon Falls, which could be described as Samaná’s iconic site. A favorite activity is riding on horseback to reach the falls. Those who time their visit between January and March can indulge in whale watching via boat excursions on Samaná Bay. During these winter months, about 2,500 humpback whales migrate to the bay. Another ecoexcursion is hiking, caving and birdwatching in Los Haitises National Park, a protected area covering 319 square miles.
Water sports activities in Samaná include kitesurfing, paddleboarding, diving and surfing, with the option for lessons at Carolina Surf School on Playa Bonita.
One of the most intriguing aspects of Samaná is its link to 19th-century slavery in the U.S. In 1824, Philadelphia granted thousands of African slaves their freedom.
The newly freed opted to sail to Samaná to create their own culture in a setting far from their travails in the United States. This insular enclave called Samaná Americans flourished and held onto its own English language rather than shifting to speaking Spanish, the language of the Dominican Republic. These former slaves have their own African-influenced music called bambula. There is a sizeable community of descendants of Samaná Americans still living in Samaná.
The challenge for travelers is to observe the culture without being invasive. One place to start is La Churcha, in the town of Santa Bárbara de Samaná. The African Methodist Episcopal church was built by Samaná Americans in the 19th century. Its present-day attendees are descendants of the original Samaná Americans. For a taste of African-American baking, stop into Mi Vieja on the Samaná highway to Las Galeras. Here, travelers can stock up on bread and pastries baked in the Samaná American style.
Visitors to Samaná also will have a range of accommodations from which to choose. Luxury resorts include Sublime Samaná, Amanera and the all-inclusive Viva Wyndham V Samaná. Smaller eco-chic resorts include the Dominican Tree House Village, Calve Verde Ecolodge and the 28-room Paraiso Cano Hondo, in Los Haitises National Park. Those looking for the classic Punta Cana-style all-inclusive experience can book one of three resorts from Bahia Principe Hotels & Resorts, including the Luxury Bahia Principe Cayo Leventado.
Most restaurants build their menu around fresh seafood served with Caribbean flair. Because of the number of Europeans vacationing in Samaná, the dining scene has grown to include French, Peruvian, Italian, Belgian and Thai cooking. Since most resorts are not not all-inclusive, there’s reason to venture off-resort to dine at an array of restaurants in Las Terrenas, and those in the countryside. Some of the celebrated venues are El Cabito, Mi Corazón Restaurant and Pueblo de Los Pescadores.
Samaná is the flip side of packaged tourism. It is a good match for travelers in search of eco-attractions, authentic culture and off-resort activities.