Skillet skills
Cast iron can handle everything from steak to cinnamon buns
If you’re looking for a workhorse in the kitchen that will last a lifetime, look no further than a cast iron skillet. If cared for properly, it will last generations (unlike some other nonstick skillets whose coating flakes after a few years). h One trend coming out of the COVID-19 pandemic is that more people are baking than ever. And even as safer-at-home orders end, I hope people’s love of baking will continue.
Although you may think your cast iron skillet is the perfect vessel for frying up bacon, and it is, these pans are also ideal for baking — anything from cakes and cinnamon rolls to homemade bread, brownies, quiche and more.
For one, it gives you more control over the task at hand because it can go from stovetop to oven. If you’re making an apple crisp, for example, you may want to sauté the apples on the stove before adding the crisp topping and baking. Using a cast iron skillet gives you that flexibility.
You can also use your cast iron like a mixing bowl. One of my favorite cornbread recipes starts with melting butter over the stove, then whisking in sugar, flour and cornmeal (among other ingredients) right into the pan before baking. I love the fact that I don’t have to get another dish dirty.
A big reason why people love cast iron for searing meat is that it provides a nice, even sear with steady heat. This evenness also makes it ideal for baking. So whether you’re doing a giant chocolate chip cookie or a pineapple upsidedown cake, you’re going to get an evenly cooked product that doesn’t have overdone parts or areas where the batter is a little too raw.
As far on deciding on a pan, there are a lot of brands and sizes to choose from. I, myself, have five pans, a 10-inch skillet, a 12-inch skillet, an enameled 11.75inch skillet, a square grill pan, and an enameled griddle. The ones I use for baking are the traditional 10-inch and 12-inch skillets.
According to Popular Mechanics, the No. 12 skillet from Smithey Ironware wins for best performance ($200, smithey.com), and the Lodge Classic 12inch skillet ($47.64, amazon.com) wins for best everyday skillet. If you’re a cast iron newbie, I recommend starting with a cheaper version to make sure you can take care of it properly before committing to a more expensive brand. But if you’re a seasoned cook, by all means, go for the better-quality brand.
As far as taking care of a cast iron skillet, it’s not hard if you know what to do. But doing the wrong thing (like putting your pans in the dishwasher or soaking them in hot, soapy water) can have disastrous effects, like a pan covered with rust. When you do need to clean your pan, don’t use an abrasive pad or steel wool. Instead, wait for the pan to cool down a bit before scraping any food bits with hot water and a wooden spoon or soft sponge. Use any type of dish soap sparingly (if at all). Immediately wipe down the pan to prevent rust and dry it on low heat on the stovetop.
A properly seasoned pan is also key to maintain that nonstick coating cast iron pans are known for (and it’s ideal to do after cleaning when your pan is completely dry). Just spread a thin layer of flaxseed or vegetable oil over the skillet.
Place it upside down on your middle oven rack at 375 degrees for one hour. Turn off the oven and let your pan cool completely inside.
This recipe from “The King Arthur Flour Baker’s Companion” (The Countryman Press, 2003, $35) is the ideal dish to make in a cast iron skillet. I tested this recipe in a 10-inch skillet, and I was able to fit nine cinnamon rolls in the pan. If you are using a 12-inch skillet, you should be able to fit in all 12 cinnamon rolls.
Cinnamon Buns
(Makes 12 servings)
For making dough:
3 1⁄2 cups flour
2 1⁄4 teaspoons instant yeast
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons nonfat dry milk
1 1⁄4 teaspoons salt
1 large egg plus enough water to make 1 cup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter, softened
For filling:
1⁄4 cup butter, softened
3⁄4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon
For icing:
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 cup powdered sugar
To make the dough, knead together the dough ingredients, by hand or mixer, to form a soft, smooth dough. Place it in a greased bowl, and let it rise in a warm place for 1 to 1 1⁄2 hours; it should almost double in size. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and roll it into a rectangle measuring about 11 by 20 inches.
Spread a thin layer of soft butter over the dough, leaving about 1 inch uncovered on the short side nearest you. Combine 3⁄4 cup sugar with cinnamon and sprinkle the dough with the cinnamon sugar. Starting with the long edge covered with the filling, roll the dough into a log. Use a serrated knife to gently saw the log in half, then cut each side of the log into six equal pieces.
Place the buns in a large cast iron skillet with a little space (about 1 1⁄2 inches) between them. Cover with a loose piece of plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place for 45 minutes to 1 1⁄4 hours, until they’re quite puffy. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the buns for 25 minutes, until they’re golden brown. Remove from the oven and let them cool in the pan for 10-15 minutes.
To make the icing, mix the heavy cream and powdered sugar to make a creamy glaze. Spread the icing on the buns and serve.