Ben-yay’s Gumbo Shop opens in the old Dejavu spot
The building at 51 S. Main St. has seen many good times and some darn tasty New Orleans-inspired eats.
It is serendipitous that a gumbo shop has just opened in the same space of the late Gary Williams’ Krewe of Dejavu restaurant. It’s a plan that was in the works long before Williams died in 2018.
Ben-yay’s Gumbo Shop was originally to be a collaboration between Williams and restaurateur Tony Westmoreland. The two longtime friends even had a logo ready to go, as they looked for the perfect location for their new eatery.
When Williams died, Westmoreland put the idea on the back burner. A call from the building owner a few months later brought the idea back — with a full steam ahead boil.
Beignets, po-boys, gumbo and Creole fare are just some of the menu items at Ben-yay’s Gumbo Shop on South Main Street. The restaurant opened with a limited menu on Aug. 26, but will celebrate its grand opening and debut the full menu on Sept. 3.
The new restaurant is owned and operated by Westmoreland and his wife, Stephanie, as well as Cullen Kent. The three are partners in Tandem Restaurant Partners, a group known for saving beloved Memphis institutions like Zinnie’s and Robilio’s Side Car. This is the group’s first original concept.
Ben-yay’s was set to open for Mardi Gras, just as the COVID-19 pandemic hit Memphis. After months of waiting, Tony Westmoreland decided it was time to go ahead and open, or as they say in New Orleans, “Let the good times roll.”
The building has been completely transformed. Instead of the garish bright yellow, green and purple Mardi Gras colors on the walls, exposed brick, burnished wood and copper patina create a moody space with a cool New Orleans vibe. Flickering lights and New Orleans jazz in the background add the finishing touch. Paintings by artist Toonky Berry provide the New Orleans funk to the upstairs loft dining room.
The menu features an assortment of Creole favorites, from casual dishes like gumbo, jambalaya and po-boys for lunch to more elegant fare such as Stuffed Flounder Pontchartrain, Delmonico Steak and Praline Duck for dinner. Dishes like Voodoo Pasta (a creamy shrimp and crawfish dish) and the Dejavoo Special (fried catfish topped with crawfish etouffee and pimento cheese grits) were inspired by Williams’ Dejavu menu.
Jerome Ladd leads the kitchen. Ladd, who had been a sous-chef at Interim when the Westmorelands were part of that restaurant, was promoted by the Tandem partners for this role. “We now have a company where we can build up our employees,” said Westmoreland.
“The menu plays back to old New Orleans,” said Ladd.
“We are going to show that New Orleans is not the only place to get good Creole food.”
Ladd makes everything from scratch, even (if not especially) the roux. “Roux is the soul of these dishes,” said Ladd. “It takes time to make it smooth and silky. You can taste the love we put into making it.” The menu will also feature a full bar with frozen drinks, as well as an espresso menu for weekend brunch.
Guests can sit downstairs, as well as in an upstairs loft and on the outdoor patio. “This was really a passion project for Tony,” said Stephanie Westmoreland.
“He and Gary had spent hours working on it. He always thought they would do it together. When the landlord called, we couldn’t pass this opportunity up.”
Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.