The Commercial Appeal

Bird flu drives free-range hens indoors

Though some farmers taking different approach

- David Pitt

DES MOINES, Iowa – Is it OK for freerange chickens to not range freely?

That’s a question free-range egg producers have been pondering lately as they try to be open about their product while also protecting chickens from a highly infectious bird flu that has killed roughly 28 million poultry across the country.

The U.S. Department of Agricultur­e recommends that chickens be moved indoors to protect against the disease, but while some are keeping their hens inside, not everyone agrees.

John Brunnquell, the CEO of Indianabas­ed Egg Innovation­s, which contracts with more than 50 farms in five states to produce free-range and pasture-raised eggs, said any of his chickens in states with bird flu cases will stay in “confinemen­t mode” until the risk passes.

“We will keep them confined at least until early June,” Brunnquell said. “If we go four weeks with no more commercial breakouts then we’ll look to get the girls back out.”

Bird flu cases have been identified in commercial chicken and turkey farms or in backyard flocks in 29 states, according to the USDA. Spread of the disease is largely blamed on the droppings of infected migrating wild birds.

The farms Brunnquell contracts with are in Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Ohio and Wisconsin, all of which have had at least one case of bird flu.

But some, like Mike Badger, the executive director of the American Pastured Poultry Producers Associatio­n, are taking a different approach.

Badger, whose Pennsylvan­ia-based nonprofit group has about 1,000 members across the country, believes birds kept outdoors are at less risk of infection than chickens and turkeys raised amid thousands of others in large, enclosed barns.

“We put them outside and they get in touch with the environmen­t so I think they have a better immune system to be able to fight off threats as they happen,” Badger said.

Research has not clearly proven significan­t immune system difference­s in chickens housed outdoors versus indoors. And Badger speculates that lower density of animals, air movement and less sharing of equipment and staff in pasture-raised operations may contribute to a lack of virus infections.

He said the decision whether to bring hens inside to wait out the annual migration of wild waterfowl is a farm-to-farm decision “based on the comfort level with the risk acceptance.”

Commercial outdoor flocks make up only a small percentage of U.S. egg production. About 6 million hens, or 2% of national flock, are free-range and about 4.2 million hens, or 1.3% of U.S. egg production, are from pasture-raised chickens. Chickens are categorize­d as freerange or pasture-raised primarily by the amount of time they spend outdoors and space they are provided.

Free-range chickens typically must have at least 21.8 square feet of roaming space outdoors and remain out until temperatur­es drop below around 30 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the American Humane Associatio­n, which certifies egg operations. Pasture-raised chickens typically must have 108 square feet outdoors each and remain outside most of the year except during inclement weather.

The certifying organizati­ons have protocols for high-risk situations and allow for temporary housing indoors – a time period not specifical­ly defined – once a farm documents an outbreak near an outdoor flock. Certificat­ion agencies monitor farms to ensure they don’t use bird flu as an excuse to keep birds inside too long.

Brunnquell said none of his farms had infections during the last big outbreak in 2015, and he hasn’t had any cases this year.

Farmers in Europe have been dealing with the bird virus longer than those in the U.S., with cases reported as early as last December.

The United Kingdom has ordered free-range hens to be housed inside to protect them from the avian flu, and that has forced changes to how those eggs are labeled in stores. Free-range packaging is still used but must be marked with an added label of “barn eggs,” according to a communicat­ions representa­tive for the British Free Range Egg Producers Associatio­n. Each egg also is stamped with a No. 2 that denotes “barn” rather than No. 1 for “free-range.”

For U.S. consumers, it means the freerange eggs they buy at a premium price could come from a chicken being tempo

rarily kept inside. But producers say they think people who pay more for pasturerai­sed or free-range eggs have animalwelf­are concerns and don’t want the chickens to be endangered by the virus.

Eggs of all kinds have grown costlier recently thanks to bird flu concerns and a national spike in food costs.

Last week, prices for convention­al eggs increased by 40 cents per dozen to $1.47 while cage-free egg prices rose 3 cents to $2.40 per dozen, according to the USDA. Organic eggs, which are from chickens required to have access to the outdoors, were selling for a national average of $4.39 a dozen last week, up from $3.65 the week before.

The price of eggs used by bakeries and other food products soared to a record high on April 8.

So-called breaker eggs, which will later be broken by processors and sold in containers weighing up to 50 pounds, peaked at $2.51 per pound, said Karyn Rispoli, egg market reporter for Urner Barry, a New Jersey-based food commodity market research and analytics firm. Many of the egg layers that have died from bird flu were on farms contracted to provide breaker eggs used as food product ingredient­s, Rispoli said.

Bird flu likely will remain a problem for at least several more weeks as migrating waterfowl will remain on the move in the Mississipp­i Flyway until June.

In the past, warmer weather and the end of migration brought an end to bird flu cases, allowing turkey and chicken farmers to begin the monthslong process of replenishi­ng flocks and resuming production.

 ?? CHARLIE NEIBERGALL/AP FILE ?? Some farmers are wondering if it’s OK that eggs sold as free-range come from chickens being kept inside. It’s a question that has risen lately as producers try to protect chickens from a highly infectious bird flu.
CHARLIE NEIBERGALL/AP FILE Some farmers are wondering if it’s OK that eggs sold as free-range come from chickens being kept inside. It’s a question that has risen lately as producers try to protect chickens from a highly infectious bird flu.

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