Secret is out
Discover the charm of this coastal village
Mystic may get all the notoriety and tourists, but it’s Stonington Borough that locals thinks is perhaps the most beautiful coastal village in all of New England. Both Mystic and Stonington Borough are sections of the Town of Stonington, tucked into Connecticut’s southeasternmost corner, and each has its own distinct feel.
This mile-long peninsula of Stonington Borough — extending into Fishers Island Sound where the waters meet at the corner of Connecticut, New York and Rhode Island — is packed with history. Walk its streets, lined with perfectly preserved pastel-painted homes. Learn of its wartime exploits; its days as a whaling, sealing, and trading center; and its brushes with fame. Browse the independent shops and dine at one of the many restaurants that take full advantage of the region’s farms and fisheries.
You’ll quickly find that despite growing awareness of Stonington’s appeal, including several movies being filmed here, the Borough and its surrounding area has retained a quiet, noncommercial quality. It’s the kind of place you can visit on someone else’s recommendation and still feel like you discovered it yourself.
There are many ways to approach Stonington: as a shopper, a foodie, a history nerd, or a lover of the outdoors. There are many ways to experience Stonington, too. The Borough is so compact that you can reach everything on foot; and if you’re willing to drive for a few minutes, additional opportunities for adventure open up to you. Or you can stay still, planting yourself with a drink at an outdoor table or lounging by the water, and watch the summer activity swirl by. But no matter what your tastes are and what sort of travel you prefer, a trip to Stonington is always unforgettable.
By the sea
Stonington is the only Connecticut town that can claim it faces the Atlantic Ocean. While this may be simply a geographical technicality — neighboring towns, with their views of Long Island Sound, also boast lovely coastlines
— it’s undeniable that Stonington has a special connection to the sea.
A good place to get a sense of the town’s relationship between land and water is Stonington Point at the very tip of the Borough, where a tall flagpole presides over that panoramic three-state view. It’s adjacent to the small, family-friendly DuBois Beach.
From here, you can’t miss the charming granite Stonington Harbor Lighthouse, built in 1840 and opened as the nation’s first lighthouse museum in 1927. The Stonington Historical Society, which still operates the museum, also owns the Captain Nathaniel B. Palmer House, former home of the Antarctic discoverer and his equally adventurous seafaring brother, Captain Alexander Smith Palmer. The Palmers weren’t the town’s only famed explorers; on Main Street, you can find the birthplace of Captain Edmund Fanning, the first American to circumnavigate the globe.
Stroll past the commemorative guns of Cannon Square to see how the War of 1812, during which a small band of vastly outgunned locals repelled a British naval attack, still looms in town. For another view of the water, duck behind the Stonington Commons condominiums and follow the narrow walkway past rows of docks to a picturesque stone jetty and sturdy seawall. Don’t forget to make a quick stop at the colorful Town Docks, home of Connecticut’s sole remaining commercial fishing fleet. The annual Blessing of the Fleet ceremony, a Stonington tradition, is normally held here in July.
History lovers
As rich as Stonington’s maritime history is, the stories of its past do not begin and end at the waterfront. Take yourself on a walking tour of the Borough, from Stonington Point up Main Street to the Stonington Free Library, then back down Water Street. As you ad
mire the architecture, look out for the numerous historic plaques that provide biographical details about each home’s original inhabitants.
You’ll spot landmarks like the James Merrill House, where the acclaimed poet’s apartment now hosts a writerin-residence program; the 1827 Greek Revival Custom House, a vestige of the days when Stonington traded directly with the West Indies; the Amos Palmer House, where the artist who painted the work known as “Whistler’s Mother” once lived with his portrait’s subject; and the 1836 Portuguese Holy Ghost Society building, a reminder of the area’s enduring Portuguese heritage.
Look out for other markers and memorials too, like the plaque on a rock on Main Street honoring the first railroad operated in Connecticut. Beginning in 1837, the Providence & Stonington Railroad ran right through the Borough to connect with steamboat service at the Town Docks. As you explore, don’t neglect the quieter, residential side streets, which are equally full of beauty and history.
Like any New England town, Stonington has its share of venerable churches. The postcard-perfect First Congregational Church is the oldest, established in 1674, and the 1834 United Church of Stonington building is a handsome addition to the architecture of the Borough.
For another look into Stonington’s past, visit one of its historic cemeteries. The diminutive Miner Cemetery is typical of a family burial ground in a rural coastal setting, while the impressive Stonington Cemetery is much larger, with tombs ranging from humble 18th century stones to a Gothic mausoleum and diverse examples of funerary art. There’s even an old oneroom schoolhouse, the Road District School, located beside the First Congregational Church.
Nature, preserved
Much of Stonington’s natural beauty can be found in its rocky shores and deep blue waters. But a surprising amount of open space here is lush and green, making up the enchanting environment where coastal marsh meets forest.
Since 1968, the Avalonia Land Conservancy has worked to acquire and preserve 4,000 acres of these wild places in six towns. Today, visitors to Stonington can choose between fifteen of Avalonia’s properties, each with a different atmosphere. The Dodge Paddock and Beale Preserve, right in the heart of the Borough, is a small waterfront parcel bordered by stone walls and seawalls. Located on the site of an early 19th century pottery works, it feels like a little world apart. The Knox Preserve, next to Miner Cemetery, features trails that cut through the woods and grassland of an old farmstead beside a cove.
For a solitary view of the fragile salt marsh that makes up so much of Connecticut’s coast, head to the Marcia Woolworth Porter Preserve, where a wooden boardwalk leads through the trees to a bench perched right at the water’s edge. Or discover another of the many nature preserves in the area, some of which feature water access, historic ruins, or walking trails of varying difficulty.
Shop local
With its selection of one-of-a-kind stores, Stonington is an ideal destination for anyone looking to support local shops and makers. Goods range from high-end to simple and affordable, and everywhere you turn, creativity and little luxuries abound.
As you stroll along Water Street, you’ll pass a variety of unique businesses. Check out Grand and Water Antiques for an unusual and eccentric stock of vintage furniture and homewares; A.K. Dasher Jewelry for a large, tempting choice of reasonably priced sterling silver and gemstone jewelry; Verdant Floral Studio for blooms and candles; Pup Stop Stonington for dog toys and treats; and Tom’s News and General Store for a newspaper, candy, grocery items, and local flavor.
Even if you’re keeping close to the center of the Borough, it’s worth venturing a few minutes away to find the Velvet Mill, an imaginatively repurposed old factory space where dozens of businesses, including retail shops and eateries, inhabit a maze-like bazaar. Here, you can shop for antiques and collectibles, clothing, accessories, art, and more. While you’re in the area, check out Fun Company Sample Outlet for eclectic clothing, linens, kitchen items, and gifts.
Outdoor dining
As summer heats up and outdoor dining becomes de rigeur, there’s no better place to enjoy a meal than by the water or on the patio at one of Stonington’s acclaimed restaurants. For lunch or dinner, there’s Dog Watch Cafe (American, seafood), Breakwater at Stonington Harbor (American, seafood), or Milagro Cafe (Mexican.) Sleek coffee shop Social Coffee Roastery has limited sidewalk seating, and Whitecrest Eatery
(American, local ingredients) in the Velvet Mill has a spacious indoor patio with a sidewalk seating vibe.
Or, grab a beverage and a portable meal or snack from Indulge Coffee & Sandwich Co., which sells baked goods too; Macondo, known for its smoothies as well as coffee; or Zest Fresh Pastry in the Velvet Mill. Then head to the Point, the Nathaniel B. Palmer House grounds, or any of Stonington’s other outdoor spaces for a little picnic in the sun.
Restaurants aren’t the only local destinations to combine food, drink, and open air. The Saturday morning Stonington Farmers Market, which historically set up at the Town Docks, is now operating from the larger parking lot at the Velvet Mill. The market brings together a variety of local artisans as well as farmers.
Stonington is also home to two popular wineries, both ideal spots to savor some red, white, or rosé in a relaxing natural setting. At Saltwater Farm Vineyard, located in a renovated WWII-era airport on a sprawling shoreline property, you can purchase a selection of cheeses and crackers or a meal from a visiting food truck to accompany your glass or bottle. Stonington Vineyards, where you can drink your wine on a cozy deck with a gazebo and a view, also offers wine tastings, live music, and outdoor summer events.