The Day

Cheesy Baked Grits a deeply satisfying staple

- By SARA MOULTON

A kind of carbo-licious porridge made from dried and coarsely ground corn, grits are to Southern cuisine what potatoes are to Northern cuisine — a deeply satisfying staple. Like squash, tomatoes and deep-pit barbecuing, grits came to define Southern cooking via the cuisines of such southeast American Indian tribes as the Caddo, Choctaw and Seminole.

These days we're starting to see grits all over the country. Often they'll show up at breakfast seasoned with salt and pepper, topped with a pat of butter and nestled alongside some bacon and eggs. They're also a signature element in Shrimp and Grits, one of the succulent delights of the cuisine of coastal South Carolina and Georgia, which has also migrated widely.

But wonderful as they are, grits can be a chore — if not slightly dangerous — to make. I'm speaking of regular old-fashioned stonegroun­d grits, which trump "quick grits" and "instant grits" in both flavor and texture. Made the usual way, old-fashioned grits need to be stirred relentless­ly to avoid clumping. You also have to handle with care; this hot mush has a tendency to bubble up and burn the cook.

Here's a way to avoid those problems: Make it in the oven instead of on the stovetop. You simply combine the grits and the liquid in a ceramic pie dish (a total of 10 minutes hands-on time) and pop it into the oven for 45 to 50 minutes. Then stir in the flavorings — sharp cheddar cheese, in this case — and it's done. How easy is that?

One note, though. The ceramic pie plate (or any shallow ceramic baking dish with the same capacity) is key. Pie plates made of metal or glass do not conduct heat as effectivel­y.

 ?? SARA MOULTON VIA AP ?? Cheesy baked grits in New York. This dish is from a recipe by Sara Moulton.
SARA MOULTON VIA AP Cheesy baked grits in New York. This dish is from a recipe by Sara Moulton.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States