The Day

Miso soup? Sure, but the savory paste can flavor so many things

- By CAROLE KOTKIN

Have you seen those plastic tubs of miso paste in Asian markets or supermarke­ts and wondered what to do with it?

It's miso, one of the backbones of Japanese cooking and one of my favorite condiments to have on hand. I love the sweet-salty-savory-nutty depth of flavor that it adds when stirred into dishes.

Miso is a paste made from a mixture of soybeans, rice, barley or other grains that have been fermented with salt, water and a fungus. Miso is teeming with protein, B vitamins and minerals, and rich in glutamates, which give food that meaty taste known as umami. While most of us recognize miso paste for its use in Japanese miso soup (who hasn't been on the miso soup diet?), it also adds a unique flavor to sauces and marinades, baked tofu or vegetable dishes.

There are more than 1,000 types of miso. They differ in color, aroma and taste based on where the miso was made, the type of fungus used and the length of fermentati­on. A broad rule is that flavor deepens as the color gets darker. Among the most common miso pastes, white miso is the mildest variety and is great for salad dressings and light sauces. Red or dark brown miso is fermented the longest; and it is concentrat­ed and intense and best used sparingly in recipes that can stand up to its bold and pungent flavor. Yellow or light brown miso lies between these two types and is of medium strength. It is good used in soups, marinades and glazes.

Asian ginger-miso vinaigrett­e is an excellent change from the usual olive oil-vinegar salad dressing. To make the vinaigrett­e pour 1 tablespoon each of canola oil, dark sesame oil, white miso paste and rice vinegar into a blender and add 1 garlic clove, half a teaspoon of sugar, 2 teaspoons of grated fresh ginger and pinches of salt and pepper. Blend until smooth and pour over salad greens, grilled fish or sautéed spinach.

A mix of equal parts miso and mayonnaise makes the perfect topping for any sandwich you can create. Barbecue sauce flavor is enhanced with a little miso stirred in.

Once opened, miso paste should be covered with plastic wrap and kept in the refrigerat­or. It will keep for about 6 months; discard if it dries out or changes color.

 ?? JUAN CARLOS DE LA CALLE VELEZ/DREAMSTIME/TNS ?? While most of us recognize miso paste for its use in Japanese miso soup, it also adds a unique flavor to sauces and marinades, baked tofu or vegetable dishes.
JUAN CARLOS DE LA CALLE VELEZ/DREAMSTIME/TNS While most of us recognize miso paste for its use in Japanese miso soup, it also adds a unique flavor to sauces and marinades, baked tofu or vegetable dishes.

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