The Day

Making egg rolls at home

- By SARA MOULTON

Who doesn't love an egg roll? For generation­s it's been Chinese cuisine's No. 1 hit in America. And why not? They're ubiquitous, they're fried, they're delicious, and you can eat them with your hands. Unfortunat­ely, egg rolls are restaurant food. Making them at home can seem too daunting. First, there's a ton of prep. Second, you have to deep-fry them in a big pot of hot oil. Here's a solution in two easy steps; make the filling ahead of time and saute the rolls instead of deep-frying them.

Even if you weren't in a

rush, you'd want to make the filling ahead of time. It needs to cool down before being added to the wrappers. Otherwise, it'll sog them up. So why not plan ahead and prepare this dish on a weekend? (With the new school year upon us, I'll note that filling and rolling the wrappers can be a fun task for the kids, almost as much fun as eating them.)

Here the egg rolls are filled with sauteed pork, red pepper, carrots and Napa cabbage. But if you fill them with leftovers instead — shredded chicken, cooked broccoli, peas, etc. — you'll save yourself the trouble of having to slice and dice a mountain of raw ingredient­s. Do keep in mind, however, that all the ingredient­s need to be cooked before being stuffed into the wrappers. This step eliminates excess moisture and guarantees that everything is thoroughly cooked.

The great thing about a deep-fried egg roll is its crackly crisp shell. I'd never claim that sauteing them delivers the same crunch, but you'll get close. That said, you need to turn over each egg roll frequently as it cooks in the skillet to make sure that every part of its surface becomes nicely browned.

Chinese restaurant­s classify egg rolls as appetizers, but I see no reason to confine them to a supporting role. These rolls are quite substantia­l and, with the addition of a simple side dish, they'll do a stellar job in the center of your dinner plate.

 ?? SARA MOULTON VIA AP ??
SARA MOULTON VIA AP

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