Pequot Hibachi a worthy addition to NL dining scene
In my earlier life, I spent quality time in many a sea- or riverside towns, mostly in sullen and bitter acknowledgment that I’d never be able to afford to live in any of them — at least not in the context I’d see depicted in tourist or Chamber of Commerce brochures: the amusements-clustered boardwalks; the beach-front businesses or cottages with their patios or decks directly on the sand; the exotic, swim-up or dock-your-boat access to bars or restaurants ...
Twenty years ago, though, we found ourselves living in New London, a community bordered by a river AND an ocean (or at least a briny Sound). Fantastic!
Except ... the town’s layout sorta prohibits much of the waterfront scenarios described above. Oh, you can SEE the Thames River from the decks of Bank Street establishments; it’s across the railroad tracks just beyond our admittedly lovely (and woefully underused) Waterfront Park. As for the Sound, well, there are a lot of Rich Person houses and several private beaches and, at the Waterford line, the beloved Ocean Beach Park with its Sandbar Cafe.
None of this collectively suggests Sausalito, is what I’m trying to say.
But, along Pequot Avenue are a few establishments utilizing the geography. Captain Scott’s, of course. Further along is a cluster of buildings that includes the immortal Fred’s Shanty and On the Waterfront, which is now firmly established as a fine-dining destination. Both have cinemascopic water views and outdoor dining.
In between are two other small buildings that have each seen a lot of turnover in recent years. One, formerly Thamesport Marina and, for the blink of an eye, a lemonade stand, is now a new restaurant called Sellfish, serving breakfast and dinner and with a multi-umbrella’d deck overlooking boat docks and the river.
And next door to that is another tiny structure that, in the past, has hosted some fairly cool restaurants including Me & Ma’s and, more recently, the James Brothers’ Claw & Fang. Neither made it. One problem might be that, well, they were up against Fred’s Shanty and (by the time the James Brothers arrived) On the Waterfront.
Another issue might be parking. Street spaces are always tight and extend up and onto Thames and Harris streets. There’s a public parking place between but, though it’s not like summiting K2, it IS up a pretty steep hill.
Well, this is all in service to my affection and concerns for Pequot Hibachi & BBQ, which opened in early spring in the old James Brothers space. Based on the food alone, there’s no reason the tiny Japanese-centric spot shouldn’t eke out a nice existence. In fact, it seems to be doing quite well as a take-out/delivery option.
But I also worry about it because this is a location that has, historically and in whichever guise, seems to be ignored by diners predetermined to eat at one of the established neighboring restaurants. And part of that, in the context of waterfront dining, is that the architectural layout of Pequot Hibachi & BBQ building is backwards. The kitchen and counter space are in the rear, by the river, while front of the house and the patio are facing Pequot. You can’t SEE the water. Inside, next to the order/ checkout counter are a few casual dine-in tables, some travel posters and a drink cooler. Functional but nothing particularly to recommend it. There are more and preferable tables on the patio — but, again, no direct water view. It’s true the people-watching from this vantage point can be pretty great, but ...
What Pequot Hibachi & BBQ does have going for it is a simple menu of reliably tasty and moderately priced food — well-prepared and served by a small but enthusiastic staff. To start, the appetizers ($2.99-$7.99) are the most thematically varied, with options that