Summaries of recent restaurant reviews

ALFORNO TRATTORIA 1654 Boston Post Road Old Saybrook (860) 399-4166 http://alforno.net

Twenty-five years in business is no easy feat in the volatile restaurant business; doubly impressive is when an eatery celebrates that anniversary with its culinary integrity intact. It’s easy to serve comfort food to people who are used to a dish a certain way; it’s quite another to maintain a standard of excellence and quality that shows an appreciation for the classics and the confidence to try something new.

Alforno Trattoria in Old Saybrook is an example of the latter recipe for success. Many may know it as a New Haven-style pizza place (please start with the Pizza Napolitano Vera; $13.95), but the methods by which Alforno’s staff achieve a reliably delicious pie also ensure topnotch cuisine throughout the menu, from entrees to cocktails. Example: My Arugula Chicken ($23) was a seasonal special during a recent visit. Thanks to Alforno’s insistence on fresh, local when possible ingredients and dedication to authentic Italian cuisine this unexpected menu item was as outstanding as the more cuisine-recognizable Housemade Tagliatelle ($17.50 and $22.50 depending on portion).

This, my friends, is the type of continuity and creativity worth celebrating. —Marisa Nadolny

AROY THAI FUSION CUISINE 76 South Broad St., Pawcatuck (860) 495-2540

The food here is made-to-order and flavorful, and after a couple of visits, we’ve decided the lunch combos — which include a starter and an entrée with protein and are priced at just $12 — are a great value. But give dinner a try, too. Aroy is BYOB, and our waiter told us despite the advertisement of a corkage fee, the restaurant is not charging one.

We enjoyed, and have gone back to get again, the Thai Shumai, which are pork and shrimp filled dumplings. At just $6 for a serving, they are a favorite.

The Pad Thai at Aroy is also very good, and after telling a friend how much we liked it, she shared that she’d had it, too, and in her mind, it’s as good as she’s had on international vacations. Another must-have is the glass noodle and vegetable-filled Aroy spring rolls.

Locals may be hesitant to try this relatively new restaurant that is housed in a building that has seen numerous other eateries come and go, but don’t let the location’s reputation fool you. The place is very small, and the service takes time, since every dish is cooked to order. Our waiter boasted that there’s just one wok and no microwave in their kitchen. Good things take time, he told us.

There’s parking behind the building, and it is handicapped accessible. Visit Aroy and come to your own conclusion. — Ann Baldelli

SELLFISH 260 Pequot Ave., New London (860) 574-9646

The newest addition to the mini-restaurant row along New London’s Pequot Avenue, overlooking the Thames, is a tiny spot with a wood-shingle exterior that somehow blends the casual comfort of an outdoor tiki bar with an equally comfortable interior that seems more of a Euro-cafe exercise. The latter is underscored by a bicycle-racing motif — though it’s subtle rather than over-the-top sports bar-y.

The menu is small but a nice cross between creative and upscale Italianite seafood (with beef and fowl also represented) and mainstream tavern fare. There’s also breakfast on weekends and, despite the seasonal appearance, plans are to keep Sellfish open through the winter. This is a good thing.

Highlights were many, but we particularly liked the Crab Bombs ($10), an appetizer featuring four egg-sized teeming with shredded crab, seasoned stuffing and threads of tasty green and orange peppers. The exterior was lightly crisped for contrast, and the dominant flavor in this melange of greatness was indeed fresh crab.

A Sunday morning sausage gravy-on-a-biscuit platter($11) was very good. The gravy was centered on a roux happily pulled off the flame somewhere between brown and white, with a thick texture and bobbing with coins of (probably) Andouille sausage. The halved biscuit was grilled and buttered, and sides of scrambled eggs and deftly constructed home fries completed the array.

A favorite entree was a chalkboard special: shrimp and pasta with a beurre blanc sauce ($18). A heap of beautifully nuanced angel hair pasta was topped with a half-dozen, pop-in-the-mouth crustaceans and a delicate but rich and mellow sauce.

Situated comfortably between year-round neighbors On the Waterfront and Pequot Hibachi — and with the iconic Fred’s Shanty summer shack nearby — Sellfish helps make Pequot Avenue along the Thames a true dining destination. — Rick Koster