RD86 Space

86 Golden St., New London (860) 574-9335

Located in the building that long housed the historic El ‘n’ Gee rock club, RD86 Space is a triumphant restaurant both assured and creative in its cuisine and visionary in its approach. The menu changes weekly — ditto for the Saturday and Sunday brunches — and the entire staff is a-flurry in a variety of overlapping tasks with happy purpose.

We tried five different meals over two visits, and everything we ate was really excellent. If my wife Eileen — a vegetarian — could do it, she’d eat the RD86 Smoked Apple Sage-Smoked Vegan Sausage ($15) brunch entree several times a day. She’s STILL talking about it and is consistent in her proclamation it’s “one of the best breakfasts” she’s ever had. The beautifully flavored faux sausage was accompanied by deftly poached eggs, lightly crisped and seasoned home fries, and a warm kale salad that in and of itself might be responsible for this whole “kale craze” thing going on.

And while both my entrees were terrific, I can’t forget the Cast Iron Apple Pie with Salted Caramel ($8, $10 with house-crafted vanilla bean ice cream). In fact, I ate a slab with Wednesday’s dinner and another one after Sunday’s breakfast visit. Every sainted grandmother who ever baked any pie is nodding in heaven over this creation, and while for some reason the word “cinnamon” is missing from the titular description, it also plays a big component. Magnificent! — Rick Koster

1/2 R, 113 minutes. Starts tonight at Mystic Luxury Cinema, Waterford, Stonington, Westbrook, Lisbon.