The Day

FULL OF FLAVOR

Follow this formula to make a velvety soup in your Instant Pot using any vegetables you have on hand

- By JOE YONAN

One of the big misconcept­ions of our year of pandemic cooking has been the idea that those of us working from home would have more time and flexibilit­y to babysit our sourdough, our braises, our soups and stews.

On the weekends, maybe — but only for those of us without young children underfoot. During the week, in between Zoom meetings? Sure, I can preheat my oven or put a pot on to simmer, but that's about the extent of any advantage.

Perhaps the biggest change has been at lunchtime. I rarely, if ever, cooked for desk lunches. When I was on top of my meal planning, I might earmark leftovers to take to work, but more often than not, the question I asked by about noon every weekday was: Where am I getting takeout?

I wasn't alone: More people purchased lunch out of the house than any other meal in 2018, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. We won't know how 2020 fared in this survey for another couple of years, but it seems obvious that one of the biggest changes in home cooking has revolved around lunch.

Now that I'm cooking lunch or eating leftovers almost seven days a week, I've been looking for strategies to help me pull something together for my husband and me that's quick, satisfying, plus relatively light and healthy. In the summer and much of the fall, it was big salads from our backyard garden. Then, as the greens started to fade, I looked to my Instant Pot and started making soups at least a couple times a week.

In my lunch rush, I've rarely made time for an actual recipe. Instead, I turn to whatever raw vegetable I have around, which this time of year includes cauliflowe­r, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, beets, winter squash and potatoes (white and sweet).

My add-ins varied at first, but I soon settled on a formula, using coconut milk and water, plus a little lime juice, garlic, onion and ginger. About 20 minutes later (10 minutes for the pot to come to pressure and another 10 to cook), I blend the contents into a rich, aromatic puree and start scouring for garnishes.

As I've written before, even when pureed soups are as full of flavor as these, they need generous garnishes or they get tiresome to eat. So I chop up leftover roasted vegetables (or meat for my husband) and pile on herbs, nuts, maybe some canned or precooked beans, a drizzle of more coconut milk or yogurt. If I have a baguette getting stale, I saw off chunks into irregular croutons. Or if I'm thinking ahead, I use some of the base vegetable — grating some raw carrot or beet before putting the rest in the pot for the soup, for instance, or thinly slicing carrot tops or beet greens. I roast the seeds I pull out of a butternut or acorn squash, turning them crispy and browned in about the time it takes the soup to cook.

My Instant Pot soup strategy lets me cook fairly mindlessly, as the formula is so easy to remember, while the varying vegetables and garnishes keep the soups interestin­g. Plus, I make enough to bank one or two meals for the fridge or freezer.

 ?? TOM MCCORKLE/THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Any Vegetable Instant Pot Soup
TOM MCCORKLE/THE WASHINGTON POST Any Vegetable Instant Pot Soup

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