Spring awakens on Rhode Island’s North-South Trail
After hiking an hour through an evergreen-lined state forest path south of Wallum Lake in Douglas, Mass., our group finally reached a trail intersection marked by a sign we had been expecting: “78 miles to Atlantic Ocean.”
“OK,” I joked, “we should be there by sundown.” April Fools' Day humor.
This was the start of Rhode Island's North-South Trail, which connects the state's rocky and hilly terrain at the Massachusetts border with sandy beaches and crashing waves along the coast.
Of course, our crew did not reach the ocean by sundown our first day on the trail; we're hiking it in occasional stages. We hope to dive into the surf at Charlestown Beach in a few weeks.
Following is an account of our first couple of outings; future columns will describe the rest of the journey.
April 1
Betsy and Bob Graham, Mary Sommer, Maggie Jones and I set out on a raw, overcast morning at Douglas State Forest in Massachusetts, after having dropped off a shuttle car farther south.
Despite the chill, spring was slowly awakening — a high-pitched chorus of peeper frogs filled the air; red maples formed a crimson veil over sections of the forest canopy; skunk cabbage shoots poked through the mud; a pair of wood ducks took off from a vernal pool.
“The undulating terrain has a decidedly north woods character,” Maggie observed, as we traipsed up and down a series of steep ridges. Maggie is director emeritus of the Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center in Mystic; like the rest of us, she was struck by the sense of remoteness.
Here, the Ocean State looks more like the Granite State, replete with ledges, boulders and ravines, and absent of people, cars or buildings.
Maggie, Betsy, Bob, Mary and I have been hiking together regularly for more than a year since the start of the pandemic, careful to abide by social-distancing protocols. Some in our group will miss parts of the Rhode Island trail because of previously scheduled travel plans; other friends may tag along from time to time — everyone will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19.
In some ways, our expedition has been like the trail itself — somewhat disjointed, but full of memorable moments, adventure and happy surprises.
The path leading to the NST weaved through a lush expanse of trailing arbutus, whose blossoms emit a jasmine-like fragrance, and teaberry, which is used to flavor a once-popular chewing gum brand of the same name. We munched on a few of the cinnamon-y berries, which, as Maggie explained, contain methyl salicylate, a compound similar to aspirin. At least we wouldn't have to worry about headaches.
A path from the Douglas State Forest Parking Lot followed the Coffee House Loop toward an intersection with the Midstate Trail.
Had our group turned right here, we could have hiked 92 miles through Massachusetts to the New Hampshire border.
Instead, we veered left and soon reached the northern terminus of the Rhode Island North-South Trail (NST).
The trail was conceived more than 40 years ago by a hiker from Cranston named George Ernst, but did not open until 1992. It passes through eight state-owned wildlife management areas — for the most part on forest paths, but also, in several sections, on busy roads.
We would not have to deal with traffic until later in the hike.
One this first day, we crossed streams, skirted ponds, clambered up ridges and scrambled down ravines — a glorious excursion that ended at Buck Hill Road in Burrillville.
Though it had been a long day — driving more than an hour each way from southeastern Connecticut, and relying on a shuttle system to retrieve one car — we had only hiked a modest six miles. In addition, since the first 2.2 were on a trail in Massachusetts leading to the NST, we still had about 75 miles to the beach. No rush.
April 7
Maggie, Mary and I drove back to Buck Hill Road after dropping off a car farther south, and we picked up the trail where we left off. Betsy and Bob were visiting family and friends out-of-state.
We began by ambling just under a mile on the asphalt Stag head Parkway. Calling this narrow road a parkway is an exaggeration; it passed through a quiet neighborhood. After following blue blazes painted on telephone poles, we veered onto a gravel road that led to a sinuous path.
It was a delightful, sunny day. We strolled past quiet pools that contained the egg masses of spotted salamanders, while the drumming of woodpeckers echoed through pines and hemlocks. A mourning cloak butterfly landed along a trail junction.
We should have paid closer attention — a few minutes later, I realized we had missed a turn. After retracing our steps, we found the butterfly fluttering in the same spot.
“I think it was trying to tell us this was the way,” Maggie chuckled.
Maybe we should have relied on an insect rather than our instincts.
The NST piggybacks on a number of other trails. During this section, we traversed the Munyan, Richardson and Walkabout trails, taking us through pristine stretches along the shores of Wilbur Pond and the Bowdish Reservoir.
After a short lunch break on rocks alongside a small stream, we proceeded to the George Washington Management Area, crossed a sandy beach, and encountered Al Pointe and Carl Windle, volunteers helping maintain the trail. While Al lopped intrusive branches, Carl drew arrows on homemade trail signs. Thanks, guys! Much appreciated. In summer, the beach area is packed, Al and Carl noted. On this early spring day, it was deserted.
Both Al and Carl have hiked the NST numerous times over the decades, and they regaled us with tales and advice while accompanying us the last mile or so to our cars. By coincidence, the pair had parked right behind us, along the side of Durfee Hill Road in the tiny settlement of Chepachet.
“Not a bad day,” I said, as we unstrapped daypacks. We had hiked about 12 miles.
A few days later, while knocking off another 13 miles, we were saved from misfortune thanks to a random act of kindness. I'll write about that episode next week.
More information and maps of the trail may be obtained by sending a stamped, self-addressed envelope, along with $1, to NST maps, 27 Post Road, Warwick, RI, 02888-1606.
In previous years, a North-South Trail Council had organized well-attended annual hikes that included shuttle bus service, but these outings have been suspended because of the pandemic. The NST does remain open to the public, but hikers have to arrange their own transportation to and from trailheads.