The Day

Potato and spinach casserole gets lightened up

- By ELLIE KRIEGER

This recipe is a tradition that snuck up on my family. My grandmothe­r Debbie made it every Passover and Rosh Hashanah for as long as I can remember and, my mom says, for as long as she can remember, too. It remains a constant on our table to this day, long after Grandma Debbie's passing, and I couldn't imagine our holiday dinner without the crisp-topped mashed potato casserole with its ribbonlike layer of spinach, generously scooped on the “good china” and ready to be pooled with brisket gravy.

No one knows where the recipe came from — it's not in any of the handwritte­n recipe books my grandmothe­r passed down and she never talked about its provenance. (I wish I had thought to ask, way back when.) However she came up with it, the dish is now firmly a part of our family ritual, and one I am happy to share with you here.

This version captures the essence of my grandmothe­r's version, but with a few enhancemen­ts from me. It starts, as she had made it, with boiling and mashing potatoes with olive oil and broth. But I thought it would be nice to add some cauliflowe­r to the mash, too, for another layer of flavor and lighter texture. The cauliflowe­r cooks in the same pot, and at the same time, as the potatoes, so it is no extra effort. I add a handful of garlic

cloves to the pot, too, which become soft and mellow with cooking and add a deep savoriness to the mash. And I keep the skins on the potatoes for three reasons: I like the texture they add, it saves the trouble of peeling them, and it retains valuable fiber and nutrients. (But feel free to peel them if you prefer.)

Half of the rich, garlic-infused mash is layered into a casserole dish, then that is

topped with chopped spinach that has been sautéed with onion, salt and pepper. The remaining potato mixture is smoothed on top of that, and then sprinkled with either matzoh meal (for Passover) or breadcrumb­s (for any other occasion), which have been tossed with a bit of oil.

The casserole bakes until it's crisp and browned on top and steaming-hot. A creamy, savory scoop of it is heavenly with that holiday brisket and gravy, but this casserole is also right at home as a side with a simple roasted chicken, which means you don't have to wait for a special occasion to make it.

Potato, Cauliflowe­r and Spinach Casserole

8 servings (makes about 6-1/2 cups)

Active time: 45 mins; Total time: 1 hour 45 mins

This casserole of creamy mashed potatoes and cauliflowe­r with a layer of sautéed spinach originated as a side to the brisket typically served at Passover and Rosh Hashanah. (It is made with olive oil and broth — no cream or butter.) But there's no need to wait for a holiday to enjoy it. It's also right at home alongside a simple roast chicken to elevate an everyday dinner.

Make ahead: The casserole can be assembled up to the layering of the vegetable mash and spinach, covered and refrigerat­ed up to 4 days in advance. If baking directly from the refrigerat­or, add about 15 minutes of baking time.

Storage: Refrigerat­e for up to 4 days.

Ingredient­s

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (4 large), unpeeled, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch pieces

4 cups (10 ounces) bite-size cauliflowe­r florets

6 medium garlic cloves, halved

1/3 cup or vegetable broth 6 tablespoon­s olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing 1 teaspoon fine salt, divided 1 small yellow onion (5 ounces), diced

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach, defrosted, drained and squeezed dry

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup matzoh meal or panko

Steps

In a medium (4- to 6-quart) pot, combine the potatoes, cauliflowe­r and garlic, and add enough cold water to cover by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, then transfer the vegetables to a large bowl. Add the broth, 3 tablespoon­s of the oil and 3/4 teaspoon of the salt, then use a potato masher to mash to your desired consistenc­y.

In a medium skillet — about 10 inches — over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoon­s of oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, 1/8 teaspoon of salt and the pepper, and cook, stirring, until the spinach has warmed through and any remaining liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.

Brush a 6-cup casserole dish with olive oil. Layer half of the mashed potato-cauliflowe­r mixture on the bottom. Then add the spinach mixture on top, spreading it out as evenly as possible. Top with the remaining potato-cauliflowe­r mash.

In a small bowl, toss together the matzoh meal or panko with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Sprinkle over the top of the casserole and bake for about 1 hour, or until the top is lightly browned and the casserole is hot in the center. Serve hot or warm. Substituti­ons: Gluten-free? >> Use gluten-free matzoh meal or breadcrumb­s.

Frozen spinach >> frozen kale or collard greens.

Low-carb? >> Use all cauliflowe­r.

Onion >> leek. Nutrition Per serving (3/4 cup): 227 calories, 29g carbohydra­tes, 0mg cholestero­l, 11g fat, 5g fiber, 6g protein, 2g saturated fat, 354mg sodium, 4g sugar

 ?? TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY GINA NISTICO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Potato, Cauliflowe­r and Spinach Casserole
TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY GINA NISTICO FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Potato, Cauliflowe­r and Spinach Casserole

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